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You must just want to run the saw vs splitting that ash with a mawl or ax. That stuff should be a 1 smack stuff.

Poulan 3400. Was my first then a super 2 with av. Then the list just goes on and on

One thing guys gotta remember about the 365 and 372 is the oe vs xt the xt had dividers in the same bore size the oe was a different cylinder. I have several saws that the chassis can take several jugs but i dont change em unless they are damaged. I dont kill saws much so they just run.

Dont buy parts untill you look at both topends with the muffler off. Test compression cold then with oil then run them till hot then retest. If one is scored im betting dirty dried up carb parts took the piston and jug will clean up. If they are running hot and i mean real hot and the cooling...

I would probably look into one of the dukes kits. Aka traverse creek saw supply i believe. His premium kits are very nice ive heard.

Post up a pic of the cylinder and we might be able to guide you into a safe way to save/recondition it. Did it have physical damage from a shattered piston of foreign material ingestion? Or just smeared aluminum transfer on the plating? If it wasnt straight gas or a very lean tune id want to be...

Where and why are you buying e30???? Ive never seen anybody seek out ethanol fuels for ope in my life.

When the internal circuit for advance/retard fails they still spark and test good but have issues running

Been seeing a quite a few of the limited coils and some on coils with the built in retard/advance. They have issues when making the switch. Try another coil and make sure strato/choke butterfly's work right.

Some saws use roller bearings like a semi floating rear axle in a car or truck. I think a 070 090 use that style. If the shaft only goes in and out and no rubbing is happening in the case I'd say that is how they are

That's interesting? Is the diameter of the new piston correct and wrist pin too? What brand piston LRB?

That dog would have to be doing some serious damage or attacking my kid for me to stop what Im doing for him or her. So was the chain brake on as in engaged while engine was running on fast idle? If so yes heat likely caused clutch/bearing/crank seal/crank bearing issues. Hell those saws are...

Tighten the jug down on a piece of gasket in a area you knew leaked. Then try and pull the gasket out. If you pulled it out easy. Heck gap with feelers and find what's hitting what.

You could be getting a interference with all kinds of stuff. Intake boot clamp hitting? Cylinder fins or transfer bulges hitting? One thing Im wondering is why you needed to change the top end from a OEM to a hyway big bore?

If its idling too fast with the low set right back the la screw out. Its the 3rd screw not the low or the high. That will lower idle rpm to stop the chain

So I am assuming that you put it together with the original piston rings. Then only knocked down the high spots and you are running it??

Push a piston ring in the bore with a piston to keep is straight. Look at where it feels rough of catches. ID use a version of mastermind method to knock down any high spots remove any transfer put a new piston and rings and run it. Check for air leaks with those tiny seals on the flywheel side

Check the 4 screws are in and tight on the under side of the saw

Knock the high spots down and run it with new piston and rings. Use a ring slid up in the bore with a piston to keep it square to the so you can check for it catching on stuff we can't see.

The Johnny will swap over to one another.