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This is just nonsense! I saw now. I have nothing to do with the other site. I don't even know the member there. I just gave up on selling. That's why I removed the ad.

Withdrawn

I gotta call BS on that. There is NO way White Oak sitting for 1 or 2 months unsplit is at 6%. Split it would take over a year if not two to get that low.

That fluid gets HOT................so I've been told. LOL

I've had raccoons around my house forever, but I've never had them crap on my wood. Now every day they leave me new present on top of a row of Bradford Pear that I have in my woodshed. My shed is covered, but has no walls on three sides. The strange part is they only crap on the Pear. I also...

Thanks. That’s kind of what I thought. My son thinks we could use it right away, but I told him we better check first.

Good Lord, my first two cars combined cost less than that.

My son and I are going to build an electric guitar together. I have done wood working, but this will be the first wood I am sourcing directly from a tree, so I’m not sure how to do it correctly. I have some rounds of hard maple and oak that are large enough, so I am going to use the saw to rough...

Just FYI, as an alternative to Flex Seal, Menards sells this Ultima kit with twice as much goo as Flex Seal ( 32 oz vs 16 oz) and includes fiberglass mat for about the same price. About 4 years ago, I used this kit with the fiberglass mat to patch our 1600 gallon water wagon that is pretty much...

Any splatter on the stove will instantly boil off, so the stove would be the least of my worries. Roof leaks ONLY get worse. They NEVER get better. They will also eventually rot everything between where they start, and where you see it. What you are seeing as only a small drip could be a...

" In my mind's eye, a closed exhaust flue will decrease heat loss up the chimney, increase firebox temps and improve secondary burning (so optimal when you are trying to maintain heat/efficiency). Adversely, an open flue will increase exhaust/chimney temps, therefore increasing draft (so optimal...

Say Yah To Da UP Eh.

I literally use a stick for my measuring stick. 18" is the perfect length for my stove, so I cut a straight(ish) one to 18" and mark where to cut with shallow cuts with my small saw. Can't beat the price, and if I lose one, they're easily replaced.

Don't waste your time on Craigslist looking for a saw. Most saws on there are overpriced, and half of them are junk. You'll get a better saw for less money if you post a want to buy ad in the Tradin Post on here when you're ready to buy.

Never owned a flatbed, but have an 8X16 dump bed trailer, and I say buy one without hesitation. It will probably end up being your favorite purchase ever.

I'm not a Stihl guy, but I did own an 036 and I have to say that the power to weight ratio was impressive on that saw. It's downfall for me was antiquated vibration isolation. Otherwise, I really liked it. I've owned several 60cc class saws over the years, and so far my favorite is the 562XP...

Ash vs The Evil Dead

Welcome to the site John. What part of the UP are you in? My wife is from Munising, so we spend quite a bit of time up there visiting family. You're right, felling is the most dangerous part. Number one rule, no matter how careful you are, always have an escape route, even if that means...

This may not work for you , but over the past almost 40 years of sawing, this is what I've found works best for me. FWIW, my guidelines are as follows: Small saws (30cc & 40cc class) - 12-14' bar with 3/8 picco, .043 or .050ga chain. Medium saws ( 50cc class) - 16-18" bar with .325 chain...

I agree. I've never had trouble cutting dead ash either, and that's mostly what I've been heating with since the EAB infestation. Also, the dryer it is, the easier it is to split. As soon as the wedge is about 1 to 2" in, it just pops. Easy and fast to split. Also, the bark comes off easily...