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I've seen these pop up used once in a while and like the format of my Stihl 026. Would the 51 be a good competitor to the 026?

I have one that needs some parts and want to make sure I get the right one. It's on a 281xp. I'm pretty sure I know the carb model number but want to make sure before I order parts. thanks in advance!

If so, no wonder it runs so bad! It will not idle and bogs down under WOT. That would make complete sense that it wouldn't run without the main jet.

Thanks! Looks like this carb. Sure looks like it. Is there a place on these carbs to locate a part number?

Another view

Nothing in the hole. May have had a blob of brass screen originally but can't tell what it was.

Problem solved! Thank you for the tip.

Mine is reading 100 psi and runs great. I have a Harbor Freight tester which may not be accurate. I believe the highest I've seen with the tester is 135 psi on a jet ski. So maybe it reads low. All I know is my 026 gives me no problems, starts easy, and cuts with plenty of power. I've had it...

I usually go over any surfaces like that (or cyl heads / blocks on car engines) with a utility knife blade. I just carefully rub it one way then the other until I'm back to bare cast iron or aluminum. Never had a problem using this method. I then clean with lacquer thinner or some other non...

Pretty sure this things got that exact problem with the pulley. I pulled the pulley before posting this last night since it was binding on rewind and found that the pulley was wider on one side. I was thinking warpage and just heated the plastic with a torch and re-bent it flat. But based on...

There's no issue with it being locked up etc, all is good, but man is this thing hard to pull over. Every time I pull start it, my hand and shoulder are sore. Sometimes the saw actually comes up with the pull rope if I happen to catch it right at the tightest part of the compression stroke...

I have the rubber boot and the metal insert and then the carb. I don't see a washer. I believe that's how it's always been since I've owned it. It always has changed idle speed slightly based on position but this was different than usual when it was winding down slow and running very lean and...

It's now running like it used to once again. I ruled out the carb because it was cleaned and rebuilt not long ago and ran good after the rebuild. I figured it must be an air leak. I put a layer of silicone on the carb and tightened it back to the intake boot a little tighter than it was when...

It's either an impulse line to carb nipple leak or carb to intake boot. As lean as the saw is suddenly running and how long it takes to rev down from high rpms I know there has to be an air leak somewhere. Is there a good way to test the carb to intake boot connection?

Strictly from a performance to weight ratio? I happen to like the 026 and have been curious about the Husky 51 but just read that it's no where near the performance.

I wonder if the tape will meld (become one with) and take paint with it eventually.

Correct. I'm referring to two different machines here (026 and an FS81) with similar combustion varnish on the piston. Pictured is the FS81.

I notice near the exhaust port on my 026 that the piston has some brown (not black) varnish burning past the rings. On my FS81 weed trimmer it has the same but on the sides of the piston. Here's what I'm seeing on the side of the FS81 piston (pictured): Does this mean the rings are shot?

I've long read this is seals and always assumed the saw has bad seals. Today after 10 years of it running like this, I decided to tear it down and pressure/vacuum test. I sealed the exhaust port with an innertube patch, dropped the whole saw in a bucket of water full to the intake with my thumb...

Mine is very predictable. Full Choke (if I recall this locks the throttle to half or so) Pull 6x (almost always 6x) and saw will pop. Flip choke to half until warm or just hit the throttle and run it. I don't consider this easy, but since it's a small engine... maybe I do consider 6 pulls...