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Welcome to A.S. ! Do you manufacture the chains, or make loops up off of a reel to sell? Thanks! Philbert

Not sure how we got on this topic (?), but OSHA has been sponsoring electrical hazard training for tree workers, for free, around the country, for several years, along with TCIA. First link describes EHAP program, second link describes free classes, via grants. I attended. Very good...

That’s a serious looking hydraulic saw. All business. Philbert

Good point on the bar. Not only can a bar nose sprocket blow out. But, if using an outboard sprocket saw (most STIHLs), you can leave a stuck bar in the pinch, pull the powerhead, and cut yourself out with the spare bar. On some saws, I run different length bars. By keeping all my stuff for...

Tecomec (and Oregon) used to sell clamp on chain grinders, that mounted on the guide bar, and used 4” grinding wheels. I thought those would be ideal for chain saw milling. No need to remove / replace the chain. Uniform cutters. Etc. Have not seen them shown in catalogs for several years, and...

Not to provoke an old preference ‘fight’, but batches of used chains clean up fast on a grinder, with a little practice. So, a third option could be to let your dull chains collect, a bit, then batch sharpen on a rainy day. Philbert

Some guys have mentioned ‘sharpen one : keep one’ deals with certain tree companies. Philbert

I’ve posted on this before: “I have had rational conversations with guys who use chains once, then replace them. One made a similar business case for the cost of time spent sharpening, and another said he preferred factory fresh edges. Both of these guys then sold their 'used once never...

That’s a good honey hole to find. Philbert

I wasn’t counting all the chains in the basement! Just how many I try to have in the field. Philbert

I try to have 3 chains per saw out in the field. That way I can swap if I hit something, if I’m pressed for time, or just do not feel like sharpening. I also use an Oregon grinder back home. But I carry a file and guide in the field for ‘touch up’ sharpening. *The key is to ‘grind as you...

His evaluations always seem ‘objective’, but do not factor in skill, knowledge of what ‘sharp’’ is, what finished cutter profile is desired, etc. The user sharpens the chain, not the tool. Experience with any one of those tools could lead to different results in each test. Plus, he is...

How about pole saws, etc.? Do they use the small mount, or something else? Thanks. Philbert

Lookup seller ‘ArcherPlus’ in eBay. He is an importer and a goid guy to deal with. Philbert

Why The Home Depot had clearance sale prices on Toro. Philbert

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/product-selector/guide-bar-and-chain-selector/ Philbert

A bridge fell; There was a earthquake; . . . Come on guys, it’s not like something is going to blot out the sun . . . Philbert

The file shape, tooth pattern, and hardness are specific for round, chainsaw, sharpening files. I don’t believe some of that is as important for the depth gauges, where a basic mill file will suffice. But, since we are discussing differences between files, I will post a link to my epiphany...

The fixture for filing small DL count loops (Post #7, above) should become more popular, as more small trimmer saws are now being sold, along with 8”to 12” pole pruners. Philbert

If you file on a soft metal depth gauge tool, you will file it away. If the depth gauge tool is hardened, it is harder on the file. So, I use the tool to check the height; take a stroke or two; re-check; etc. Some guys tilt the tool up to protect the cutter teeth. One guy here, posted a long...