Some photos of something I made to remove the gear
It's made from a 1/2-3/8" NPT adapter and various pieces shown on the second photo. The threads on the 1/2" end are 14TPI which matches the oiler gear, but it's a little too large in diameter. Just shove a small piece of string or rag on...
Oiler gear puller
Someone was asking about a puller for the coarse 500/5000 oiler gear pullers. Hers's one I made, it's made from a 1/2-3/8" NPT adapter and various pieces shown on the 1st photo. The threads on the 1/2" end are 14TPI which loosely matches the oiler gear.
It's in the...
Hey Jeff good to see you got the 500 running.
On my saw I also can only turn it about 90 degrees, but it oils the most when turned fully counter clockwise for some reason.
The best way to confirm is to remove the bar/chain and cover then make your adjustment fully one way run the saw and...
I'm from near Stratford, ON. I cut wood for a stove in the basement, usually just helping neighbours or the odd farmer.
The saws I own are in my signature.
Rowan, your saved PM box is full and won't allow any more PM's to be sent to you.
Hey there Rowan... looks like you live about 45 minutes from me.
For the induction pipe (P/N 503161602) and impulse grommet (P/N 505310751) you can pick up from your husky dealer. They are the same as the 55 Husky saw.
I usually get my seals from Banta Saws in Eastern Ontario. They are...
Here is a photo of the top of the crankcase with the gasket.
I have circled the area where the gasket has a hole/slot for the impulse.
I would suggest making a similar gasket or install an OEM gasket and no sealer.
I have attached a photo which shows the crankcase end of the impulse hole. (red circle).
If any of your base gasket or sealer is covering that hole, the fuel pump will not operate since it needs to receive the impulses.
The next time you have it running for a few seconds, put your finger over the carb hole yet still allowing some air in, and see if you can then give it some throttle. If it runs better this way you know you aren't getting enough fuel.
Chances are that the induction pipe, which goes between...
Hey there Rustynuts, I thought I would add to your loneliest thread.:msp_wink:
Good information you have there and it helped me with a DSC6000i Makita (Blue Dolmar) I recently acquired. It had the same problem and I followed your steps plus soaked the venturi hole with some carb cleaner and...
mtngun you are doing something wrong when measuring your durations. The exhaust must have more duration than the transfers. Also your blowdown numbers don't make sense using the exhaust and intake durations you are providing.
Find TDC, then rotate crank until exhaust just starts to open and...
Sounds to me like your bar/chain isn't getting any oil, you may want to start by checking that first .
Also looks like you may have a .325 chain and a bar with a .375 sprocket.
Did your problem only start after installing the bar/chain combo?
It has a long stroke and wasn't designed to be a high reving saw, but does provide good torque. I found you can use it with an 8 pin sprocket. They are fairly simple to work on.
Are you using the correct bar?
Does the oil hole in the bar line up with the oiler hole on the saw?
Is the bar mounting correctly (tight) against the oiler hole?
4000fixed is right, roncoinc you will see the module in the IPL near the coil toward the bottom of the page. IIRC mine was the ignitron module but earlier models had a thyristor module mounted along with the coil.
There are two different coils and flywheels that I had found to be used between the S50 and S65.
Here is an S65 coil
Here is an S50 coil
roncoinc does the S50 look like yours?