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One of the best saws ever made.

.010 will be good. remember, that's a little piston compared to a tractor or truck motor.

"6K products"is a machine shop where I get my sprockets from. They used to be called "Danzco"

I used a 272 coil. I had to re-grind the coil coil to fit the bigger diameter flywheel. I had the whole 272 saw.......so i put a degree wheel on it, set to TDC, and then marked the coil at where the leading edge of the magnet on the flywheel lined up. Now I had a timing mark. I put the coil on...

I believe long bars rob power. any rotating mass wants to be round and balanced. when you force that mass out of shape.......like the track on a snowmobile, it pulls on the ends and tries to lift in the middle, and robs power. just my opinion.........

I start with the basics, simple stuff. Make sure the base gasket doesn't stick out into the lower transfer port. Make sure the the throttle blade stops at 90* to the carb bore at WOT. If the throttle blade goes past that point is just like it didn't get to WOT. Make sure the exhaust gasket...

I agree, no need to change timing much at all to warm up a work saw.

Nice job! now i gotta go buy some lumber and copy it...............

jonsered brand oil is red, I won't buy dyed oil for carving......red stripes on a carving sucks!

for that "arch"..... look at the thickness of a 4mm alan wrench, the port should be that much higher in the middle than it is at the sides. Gotta help tuck that ring into the groove on the way up.

"Make sure your exhaust roof has an arch to it" YES!! if not that'll snag a ring every time.......

here's a thread on timing numbers, might help some.......... http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/port-timing-questions.113678/#post-1799245

I'll throw out a number, I'm not scared of getting some ****:cheers: Dont raise the exhaust over 170* total duration, as a general rule they'll lose bottom end and turn gutless. OK, commence the beating.:dumb:

I like to see .010

you forgot the 4" electric grinder.:laugh:

Thanks guys. I'm looking to convert it to 1/4 pitch for carving. I contacted J-red and Baileys about the 2139. They said no. I contacted Husky about the T435, they said no also. I bought a Stihl ms150t, that came set up with 1/4 pitch. I still want a 2139 J-Red set up with a carving bar.

Hi guys, I'm looking for a top handle saw that uses a rim and drum setup on the drive sprocket. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Might have to, I hope not. I found a setup for a 339 husky, here.... https://www.loghomestore.com/1830-1-4-pitch-kit-for-arborist-saws.php is that the same as the j-red cs2139t?

Could someone please give me part numbers for 1/4 pitch sprockets for a couple of saws? first is a husqvarna T435, top handle saw, the other is a Jonsered CS2139T top handle. I need a new saw for carving and baileys can't get me 1/4 pitch sprockets for these saws. I need to make sure I can get...

I had that same problem, mine has a mikuni flat slide carb and needs to pull lots of cable to get from idle to wide open. We made a handle and trigger on the mill that works good.