Search results

What i ment was basicly if the top speed was 50 MPH, i don't want to have to rev the cr@p out of it to try from getting ran over on the interstate. If i don't think the truck will mechaniclly hold up to the trip, there's no way i'd buy it and chance it.

I would prefer a deisel, and have found a few, but they all seem to have high miles and the trucks look whooped. I definetly need a 60 FT. W.H. and i think those were all LRIII booms. The biggest thing i was worried about was the boom. I can do all the other work, but have never monkey'd with...

I'm looking at buying a used bucket truck sometime this year (with a chip box) to retire my other bucket with no box. There seems to be alot of '97-'00 Asplundh trucks coming up for sale, and was looking for some opinions on them. I know there all gassers witch doesn't bother me to much...

I paid $960 out the door for mine with a bar. I didn't think that was to bad of a deal.

There's a semi-truck salvage yard near Buffalo, Ny. I've gottan lots of new and old parts from there before. I can get there number if you want

On the truck, i'd just keep it simple and big, Your name, number, fully insured and free estimates. If you have to much (or to small) on your truck people are never going to be able to read it at 60 mph. On your card you can go nuts, put everything you do on it. Even put a picture or a logo...

My truck has one and i've never used it. Like clearance said, the shock loading is really hard on the boom. I either move the truck, or "butt-hitch" off the same limb to save wear and tear on the boom. I've seen a vid. of someones boom breaking when using the Mat. handler, not something i'd...

I run WP chain and have had very few problems. It seems to stay sharper in "dirty" conditions than say Oregon, but i will say the out of the box sharpness is not that good. Oregon and Stihl you can take right out of the box and cut, WP you almost always have to sharpen. Other wise they will...

If i use winter boots i'm ok (i believe because of the extra padding) but in my normal summer work boots my ankles don't stand a chance. I myself have been eyeing up the climb rite climbers because of the straighter shaft and the Bashlin style gaff.

My biggest problem with the Kliens is they just murder the inside of my ankle bone. After i get done climbing for an hour or two, my inner ankle is already soar and black and blue.

For the upper transfers i'll get 2-3 cut off wheels for a dremel tool and wear them down some, makes it a little easier to get in there and get better angles. On mine i square up the edges a little more on the intakes, but the workmanship looks great. Good luck.

I too have had great service from Wesspur. I like the fact that they call if something is out of stock, plus they are very helpful with any questions . As far as shipping goes, i think there pretty good. I've placed orders with Baileys and Wesspur the same day, and usually get the Wesspur...

Not always true with the head gasket. I've seen more than a few gaskets blow between the Cyl.'s and that's where all the compression goes. If it were mine, i'd just plan on doing a re-build. Flat rate on replacing the head gaskets is just shy of 11Hrs. Personally, i think the rings are shot...

Jasper or Marshall would be the only two manufactures i would even consider using for getting a re-built engine. We just had a sales rep from Jasper stop in and said that they were able to lower there prices by (on average) $300.

Rule of thumb on the old school big blocks was at 100k they were due for a re-build. This doesn't apply to every big block and especially not new vehicles, but rather a guideline. First thing i'd do is check the rest of the cyl.'s for compression, squirt oil in the holes and re-try the...

If two of the low compression cyl.'s are right next to each other then i'd say possibly a blown head gasket (but there would be other symptoms if that was the case) I'd be betting on a problem with the valves in the heads rather than bad rings. With rings that bad on 3 cyl.'s you would have...

Rebuilding engines isn't that hard, but with that said it's real easy to screw something up and have it grenade on you. You can buy a re-ring kit (with main/rod bearings, oil pump, gaskets etc.) for a few hundred, have the heads done for a few hundred and do it your self. BUT, if memory serves...

I have a 12" that handles most of everything i want it too. It makes easy work of pine a spruce limbs. Mine is a disc style, and they can clog easy when the limbs are wet, but if you let the chipper "clear out" before you feed the next piece in they won't clog nearly as often.

I run a 14" on mine but anything over 8"-10" is about max for that saw.

Done MANY cam sensors in the 7.3's before.