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Are any of those top ends oem 066/660 and in decent shape?

I gotcha. Thanks for checking!

I’m looking for a 390 cylinder in decent shape. Could use a piston too, but that’s not really all that important. Would you happen to have such a top end in that lot?

I have a Super Jolly, and it acts the same way. The arbor isn’t perfect on the wheel, so I just chalk it up to me not being able to center it perfectly every time, which is likely close to impossible. The little bit of play it has is enough to throw it off, and feel unbalanced at slow speed. At...

I can’t speak to the vise set up on your grinder, as I have the Tecomec Super Jolly which is the same as the Oregon 620-120, but I put some Teflon tape on the threads for the chain advancement stop. That took care of the nut walking out on me during grinding. I like that light set up you have...

The 6401 is just the older version of the 6421, and is a great candidate for the 79cc upgrade. If you get the older PS-7900/DCS7901 top end you can use the existing top covers, and the decomp. I will say, though, never a bad idea to replace the decomp when doing this. If you get the newer top...

The 5600 isn’t a true clamshell saw. It has a real split magnesium crank case, but the whole assembly sits in plastic cases. Considered to be a “Farm” level saw. I’ve ran both it and the 5000/5105. I’d take the 5000, but the 5600 is a decent saw if the price is right.

I use the soldering iron method on steel screws. If it’s actual thread locker that’s keeping bolt in tight, it usually softens it enough to get it out. Just be patient. It takes a while to heat them up.

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https://sleequipment.com/makita-genuine-part-181-143-213-ignition-coil-ea5000.html https://www.sawagain.com/dolmar-ps-5105-makita-ea-5000-ignition-coil-new-oem-181143213/ Those are the two I can find quickly. There was also www.performanceoutdoorequipment.com , but his shop recently burnt...

Just put it up as a parts list. I agree, parts shipping would probably be out of control.

Here’s the IPL for that saw. At least then you can google the parts numbers and see what comes up. I’ve had decent luck doing it that way. You can often get parts from German eBay. https://www.solonz.co.nz/file/665-parts-listing/open

The am coils say they work on 5100 and 5105, which can’t be true, as the crank timing is different on those two saws, and coils are not interchangeable. I wouldn’t take the chance on them, and end up with a dud I can’t use. Get an oem legit 5105 coil and you won’t have any issues. As long as...

Is it kind of popping and skipping, and not getting the rpms as before? I have a 5105 where that happened, and it was the coil gone bad. The early 5105 coils went bad fairly easily. Got a new coil and it’s back in business.

If you can find a 5100 or 510 recoil cover and flywheel pawls you should be able to get it done. I have a 5105, same saw as yours, with a non easy start set up. Works just fine.

Wow. That’s pretty steep.

I think Danzco / 6K Products makes one. https://6kproducts.com/sprocket-375_p_pitch.html

There are smaller spike bars available in Europe. Both inner and outer. If you have a contact there, you should be able to get a hold of them fairly easily. I have a set on one of my saws, and they work very well.

If you have a clutch drum for rim sprockets you could use a 7pin rim for 3/8”LP/Picco: https://www.6kproducts.com/sprocket-375_p_pitch.html Part # DS0252 on that page. I have a sprocket similar to that myself. Works just fine. You just have to figure out the bar mount and oiler hole, and make...

Yes, I agree. It wasn’t ready for prime time, but cool that they even went as far as they did. We’ll never know what it could have been. No more research into gas power from Dolmar or Makita.