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Hey, Braintree! Did you ever test out the Baltic Abrasives wheel? Would really like to hear your take on it! Mike

Thanks for sharing!! Quite the scare you must have got there!!!

All Tecomec/Jolly/Oregon grinders indicate the side-plate angle from the "horizon", exactly as one would use a protractor on a piece of paper (see the images in Philbert's post from the 18th). So 60 deg is 60 deg. Although I am German, and a huge Stihl fan, I despise their "backward" system...

As has been alluded to, short, light saws have much greater potential for kickback than do long, heavy ones. Take extra care when handling a top-handle saw, and know at all times where that bar tip is... Hope this helps.

Good point, Fran! The "R" designation has a slightly different cutter/depth gauge arrangement, if memory serves correctly...

Shhhh! Some of us are sleeping.... :surprised3:

Yes, I know this now... ;)

...anyway, the carbide chains now just live in my saw box. I rarely use them, for all the reasons which have been posted. Maybe one day they will become heroes! Who knows?

Hey Ladnar! I had a similar experience with the diamond wheel on my grinder.... there just seems to be very little room between the front of the cutter and the back of the depth gauge. It feels wrong grinding the back of the depth gauge to make room for the wheel (or in your case the file), but...

Harley! You never disappoint!!! :surprised3::dancing: Mike

Vielen Dank, Mein Herr!!! ;)

Very close.... "Leerlauf" literally means "empty run", thus "idle" in English. "Anschlag" has more than one meaning - the first you've noted (an "attack"), but it's not the right one for this application.... the literal meaning is "hit on", or as we would say "stop against", or just "stop"...

Hey, Jimmy! Been running carbide chains since 2018 on my BIL's farm, cutting fallen, burnt Bluegums. They were felled many years ago, and the bottom 5% are often lying in the dirt. Prime candidates for carbide. The carbide definitely lasts a lot longer than regular HSS cutters, but it is...

Hey, Vir!dis, I had exactly the same issue with my new Stihl MS-462. Posted pics and vids on the forum also. Never got to the bottom of it. It drove me mad! How can one properly adjust the tension if it's never the same? Anyway, ended up just cutting with it, and never had a problem.... I know...

Great that you got it running! With a new carb on, I'd be looking for other sources or air leak, for example in the intake boot or the crank seals. Also, the tank vent may be blocked. Mike

Thanks for your informative replies, Guys! I really have to try the "square" inside. I've always had a hard time lighting my torches. Good tip also on the mulch! My wife always "steals" the noodles for her garden. BTW, that's a 462 I'm running there, Farmer Steve!

Thanks for the replies! I've learned something new again!!! Yesterday I tried both methods again, and I'm convinced that it's much better with the log lying on its side. When cutting across the face (effectively an end-grain cut) the saw produces very fine dust, and does not load up properly...

Hey Guys! For years I've been cutting my Swedish Torches "cross grain", i.e. as you would in a ripping cut, with the log standing upright. I've always found it uncomfortable, in that the saw is not happy cutting directly across the end grain, especially with a "normal" 30 degree top plate...

Hey, LW! Raw fuel is good for much longer than mixed fuel. As long as the station has a reasonably high fuel turnover, you should never get fuel that is stale enough to cause problems. It's important that we make the disctinction between raw fuel and mixed. Hope this helps! Mike

My motto is: "The manufacturer knows best!" Stihl recommends that no fuel mix (or part of it) older than 6 weeks should be used in their equipment. I religiously mark my "mix date" and "discard date" on some masking tape on my fuel can to be certain that I don't use stale fuel. Tape is changed...