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These cheap little saws can be so frustrating, but once they're properly dialed in, they are super handy! I know one can't keep "throwing hundreds" into a saw worth $40, but I have swapped genuine Walbro WT-215 carbs onto many a problem child ms170/180 with nothing but wonderful results. My .02

First place I would spray carb cleaner/ check for a leak is right here where the carb mates against the boot. With a cheap aftermarket boot, if the rubber flange isn't thick enough, the carb bottoms out on this plastic area before it seals against tight against the boot. Pretty common. You said...

I think most of mine are smaller, but I'll check. 1/2" seems large. What's it for?

Missed your reply, before I made mine ;) It sounds like you're doing everything correctly to me, so maybe disregard the video link. I know that keeping the bar groove cleaned out is even more of a common task when milling. Doesn't take much for it to pack up, possibly not oil properly, & the...

Not sure how long you've been milling. Video is a little long winded, but here's a video that hits on a few topics/points of interest we've come across over the years if you're interested.

Debarking and/or pressure washing if available is a game changer in chain longevity. Are you pushing hard enough to drag the rpm of the saw down more than normal? How thick are the slabs you're milling? Are you placing wedges in the kerf behind the bar as you move down the log? Another thing...

Happy to hear it. Another one lives on. Nice work!

Did you ever get anywhere with this issue?

I'm not sure on the 365 , but most the 372xp (original edition) I've been into are right around 140-145psi factory. 155psi is plenty respectable for a stock Husqvarna

Does it "skip" at full throttle when IN the cut & with pressure on it or does it "skip" at full throttle just holding it with no load out of the wood?

As far as using a different Intake boot, I personally don't think it's necessary to use anything other than stock, unless you're going hard on the port work and running larger carb like off an 044.

I'm sure others will chime in with their experience, but the following works well for me. Most all of them I've been into are as follows or were close to it. Stock numbers: Squish - .024" Intake - 71° / 142° duration Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown Port widths are...

You have a specific model in mind or just generally speaking? @mortalitool https://redbeardsaws.com/ has a good selection of foam style filters and adapters for some of the more "popular" models. Great to deal with.

Man, I've followed Scott for a long time. The man knows his stuff & is a wealth of knowledge! I just watched his video, it's 100% exactly how I do mine. I've always said "nothing is original at this point" haha. There has almost always been someone who has "been there, done that" before you. One...

Long winded video, my apologies, but it shows what I do & explains it a little. Nothing to it really, quite simple. •1) Just get a factory rebuild kit for it. Walbro K24-HDA. The factory carb came with a blue "plastic" pump diaphragm. They were very stiff and could cause idle and runnability...

Somebody has a damn steady hand if those numbers aren't factory haha. Perfectly spaced and level, definitely looks factory stamped to me. Husqvarna made the 359 cylinders in house. Every one of them I've been into had those "pock marks" in the cylinder plating. Depending on run time or more...

Stihl PS chain, hands down the only low profile chain I'll run. Full comp, Full chisel, non safety chain. It's the same as Stihl's PS3, but without the safety bumpers. Best cutting chain there is. Only one man's opinion of course. Stihl PS (picco super) Stihl PS3

It's a classic. I'm a sucker for those movies ;) haha

Older Husqvarna saws like the 51/55 got their impulse through the bottom of the cylinder like you're talking about. Your current cylinder in question does not. A lot of "like parts" are used between different saws to save cost. Your cylinder should get its impulse from inside the cylinder. Not a...

You aren't the first one. They ALL leak there haha. Seriously though, very common issue. I've had more than 5 that all leaked there at the cylinder base. They leak at the front part where the cylinder meets the bearing cup. They leak a little to flywheel side from center. Anyway, full teardown...