Search results

The puller that Harley T is talking about in post #7 is simply a short length of bar stock tapped in one end to suit the crank thread. You screw it down until it touches the flywheel, back it off a turn, the give it a sharp rap with a hammer. I have 4, M8x1, M10x1, M10x1.25, and M12x1. Huztl...

The service bulletin for the new pump is dated July 85

I have a 5500 and a 500 that have the left hand worm drive. Both those saws also have the 4 screw recoil cover also. I don’t know how reliable an indicator this is. I have a third saw, a 500, with the late recoil but have not pulled it apart to check the worm. A std M20 nut is only 16mm thick...

You need the schrader valve as close to the cylinder as possible, but the valve needs to be as weak as piss also. If you can get your hands on the older type of valve with the exposed spring snip off enough coils until the valve only just closes by spring pressure. The ones that SnapOn sell are...

Nope, Left Hand thread. I got mine from Aliexpress, like $5.00 AUD posted. You will be very happy with the fit.

The thread size is M20x2.5. I made a tool from a stainless nut.

I had a Husky 66 that had a split in the recoil pulley and a short rope when I got it. It was very hard to pull over as the rope was binding inside the pulley. New pulley with the right length of rope and it's a different saw.

If the saw just had a worn piston/ring, then I'd bet that your original cylinder is still good, and all you needed was a new piston and or ring. The OEM cylinder is way better than whatever you replaced it with.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/partner-500-interchangable-parts.242062/

Is this still available?