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Well, I do and it's time to do maintenance. I was wondering how other people are keeping their going. My barrel is rusted but solid and I need a new seal for the stack fitting. Does anyone no what to use to seal it? I would like to know if anyone painted the outside of their barrel / heat...

The draft control is just a plate on the door that is manually opened and closed. I did put a choke cable on it so I can control it from in the house. The stove does get going to fast sometimes and puts out too much heat especially when it's in the 30's and 40's outside. It's very hard to...

I have a rather primitive outdoor forced air stove that is basically a barrel stove in a metal box. It has a manual damper on the door to control the rate of burn and can be a real nuisance to regulate. I want to put a barometric damper on the chimney this year to see if it will burn more...

And the saga continues. The new hydraulic pump that I got on line works fine. That is, once I tweaked the adjustment screw on it. At first, it stalled the engine. So, I got the splitter going and tried to split some wood when it was cold out and another problem popped up. It started leaking...

After following the helpful advice so many of you offer and checking pressures and such and after surviving the holidays, I replaced the pump on the splitter. But, it kind of fixed one problem and brought about another. Before, it didn't have enough power to split anything. Now, I can split...

I took it out this morning and split a few pieces until the cylinder stalled again and then I remove the cap and adjusted the check screw up and then down. The low side pressure went up until it nearly stalled the engine at around 800 PSI and went down as I turn screw back. But, the high...

I see from the diagram for the pump that there is an adjustment screw under a cap by the low pressure inlet. I will fiddle with that and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

Another day and more information. I did rig up an in line gauge as suggested. And then....it didn't stall. It split a log and then another. So, in order to make it fail again, I took back to the field. I split a few logs and then the cylinder stalled. The gauge read about 600 PSI while it was...

Another day and more information. I did rig up an in line gauge as suggested. And then....it didn't stall. It split a log and then another. So, in order to make it fail again, I took back to the field. I split a few logs and then the cylinder stalled. The gauge read about 600 PSI while it was...

Yup. I'm a redneck making do. So, I only run it up briefly and try to stay out of the line of fire.

I would like to put a T in the line if I can find a fitting. I've been rigging things with brass and galvanized parts which let me test before and after the control valve. I sure hope it isn't a welded cylinder. What a pain that would be to service.

It has three 3 rubber O rings that can get brittle and leak and I checked it pitting and other wear a

It has three 3 rather small rubber O rings that can get brittle and leak and I checked it for pitting and other wear and made sure the relief valve was in good shape and properly adjusted. It's not a particular difficult task. It has special gaskets between the sections that fortunately didn't...

I use engine and motor interchangeably sometimes. It has an gasoline engine. I deadheaded the output hose with the gauge assembly which forced the pump up to the maximum pressure as permitted by the relief valve. Since the gauge indicates almost exactly 3000 lbs and it nearly stalls the engine...

I have an MTD 24BF550B029 log splitter which seems to be a very common and frequently relabeled model. The cylinder goes up and down. But, it refuses to split and it doesn't seem to strain the motor. I replaced the pump seals which didn't fix it. Then, I rigged a pressure gauge on cylinder line...