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I used a heat gun on my trashcan 660 which was faded. Brought back the color but not the gloss.

Done. The idle does bounce between 2700 and 2900 but is lower than the original setting. Idles fine otherwise. When I first started it, it popped on the 3rd pull, and fired right up the next. I was pretty happy with that!

And video. I pulled the limiter caps to adjust, removed the tabs and re-installed. I am not a pro saw tuner so let me know if it still needs work. It idles around 3250rpm, chain does not move. Low idle was set to high rpm minus 1/4, high was set to 13,000 +/- rpms

Hope everyone had a merry Christmas! I finally received a new side cover, 25" bar and Stihl bar nuts. I should get it tuned tomorrow. I think it turned out great, can't wait to dig into some wood.

I haven't seen one small enough to go under the cover. I added one to the top cover and applied with hook and loop tape. Has hours and rpm's so i can tune it and isn't in the way.

I have an MS270 and have ran it since new in 2006. Great little saw. The 20" bar is pushing the limits. It's not a $400 saw. If it starts and runs well, $200 or so would be a good offer imho. Used is used and saws don't keep their values like Rolex watches.

It is alive and it sounds great. Probably needs the H/L and idle adjusted but it runs strong. Set the coil gap, new NGK plug and it fired after a few pulls. I'm waiting on the chain cover I ordered so I'll adjust it once it is complete.

Nice to be able to bring them back from the brink. I have never rebuilt one, only built up 2 new Hutzl kit saws. I left the cylinder stock but I will check squish tomorrow as I used a stock metal gasket. It turns over smooth. Can't wait to see how it runs.

Never thought about any on the screws. I can easily take them out and seal if needed. I did wipe a thin layer of ultra grey on the case gasket.

Back together...

I have both crank bearings off and there is some some noticable slop in both after cleaning with carb spray. But the bearings look intact and are not discolored. They will spin on my finger but I can feel roughness. Now, the rod bearing is toast. I can see displaced metal between the rod...

I'll pull it today and let you know.

The saw looks bone stock, all oem marked parts. No port work on the cylinder. The trashed crank is Stihl. The one I just bought is Stihl.

So as the poster above said....low speed mixture too lean? It wouldn't pull over as is. The rod was pretty tight on the crank and the crank bearings were very notchy. The jug and piston look mint. Plus the scoring inside the crankcase from the rotating assembly making contact.

Found a MS 660 in a trash pile. Took it apart and besides some nasty feeling crank bearings and tight rod bearing it is in great shape. Big chunks cleaned up...

There is also scaring inside the crankcase to indicate a clearance issue, possibly from it getting hot.

I didn't inspect it visually. The rod to crank bearing was very tight and the two crank bearings were very notch so I figured they needed replaced

It was a good, used crank off eBay for $99. I thought about a new chinesium one but figured a parted out Stihl crank is still better.

I have a new Stihl crank and bearings on the way! This will be a cheap saw lol.

Or maybe a better title would be "I found an MS 660 power head in a trash heap that needs new rotating assembly and bearings." Piston looks unscathed but the rod was bound up on the crank. Straight gassed? I have the rest of the big parts cleaned and drying. The saw is in great shape.