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It may be leaking between outer rubber piece and pump if you didn't replace that too. The fitting depends on pressure from the cover. Some have dented the cover a tad over the pump to increase the pressure on the seal (guilty) but that's a temp fix if it works.

Check the fuel tank vent by turning saw on the side and open the fuel cap when it starts to run lean. Longshot but easy to check.

People typically use small electronics solder to check squish. It's soft enough to deform without causing the piston to pivot. Measure the solder with calipers or compare to feeler gauges. Hondabond 3 works for me. I guess you take a chance by not vacuum testing, but I don't have one either...

Kudos for listing parts you have changed. You want to try the things JD mentioned when the saw quits. A plugged vent would cause a vacuum in the tank. Inspect the plug when you check hot spark - a wet plug might further point to the coil. The inside of fuel lines often get gummy just where...

How big is the squish on those new hyways? Run good?

My Monday morning quarterback bet would be that fuel line. It's very common for them to get gummy and close up just inside the tank. Glad you got it sorted.

Could be a combination of issues. Are you using a 3/16 file? The rakers on the left side look lower than on the right side in the last pic (camera angle?). The top edge on the cutters should be straight like the witness mark instead of curved (bottom side pic).

Does he need to plug the decomp valve hole when doing a vac test? Or is there not enough vac to open the valve? I like 'em for cold starts but know they fail. Good to check them every once in a while.

You can try putting the valve in a vice and give the mushroom a couple good taps with a hammer. Someone posted the hammer trick a while back, and it worked for me on one that I had replaced because it was leaking. I felt less compression when pulling the cord when it leaked but it would seal...

Did I miss your posting about how it runs and compares to your other models?

Some aerosol may have been sucked into the intake during your test. Did you put an AM carb kit in it?

Would the carb get impulse to run if it wasn't seating? I'm guessing you sprayed toward the cylinder (away from intake). Could it still be sucked in the filter or maybe a leak toward the cylinder? Got a metal clamp on the boot? --- CU posted while I was typing

Oh yeah. I have other old chains for such work. Got my last new loop of txl on it now - ready to go find hidden metal.

Ever seen a depth gauge bent like this? This chain had a hard life. Lost two teeth the first time I used it. It lost a couple more along the way. Now this while cutting a two foot branch out of an overgrown fence.

9t may have have been the only choice to run .325. The inside radius is too big to make a 7 or 8t rim for a regular 7-spline drum. I ran into that on a 357 and had to change to a small 7 drum.

.063 vs .050 only matters to the extent that the chain must match the bar. You need 20lpx for a standard .050 bar. 22lpx is for .063 bar. It's possible you have a NK bar, in which case you want txl chain to match. You can look for the NK symbol on the bar or measure the bar width to be sure...

It may have nothing to do with using the dremel. I had a similar experience when trying Carlton chains a few years ago. Iirc, it wouldn't sharpen after I hit some metal when clearing a fence line. I can't recall but I may have continued to use it for a few more cuts, which I'm guessing caused...

Can you try it with the air filter removed to make sure the filter isn't causing it? Consider removing the carb. With the diaphragm off, put a length of hose on the inlet barb and blow into it while pressing and releasing the lever to see if the needle is seating. Adjusting the lever lower...

I haven't used one. My plan was similar to yours. I got a flat piston, ported the cylinder, mm, bgd. It runs too good to mess with now. Then I kind of lost interest when I started a 357 build. But I'm left wondering what it could have been if I had gone with the closed port cylinder...

Look at the hp ratings. Going from a dished pistons to a flat increases it from 3.2 to 3.3. The 44.3 xp cylinder is 3.7 in stock form. There are inexpensive AM xp kits out there. You just purchased the wrong one.