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That is why I stick to 3 series huaky and stihls of that era and my old appances as long as they keep working

put a little soapy water on it under pressure and see if it bubbles

thought you meant the flywheel side- was only on my first coffee- rebuilt 2 0f those saws in the last couple of weeks- just bought 2 of the pto side sealed bearings syesterday from the dealer- got another 390 to rebuild in about a week and like to have them on hand- flywheel side the seal will...

no- the 372 does in the clutch side but not the the 385 and to put your seale bearing in I think you need some guidance

no change - same case same seal- a 390 is just a 385 with a bigger bore - rebuilt loads of them' popular saw in my area

there is a step- 372 doesn't

could be a plugged tank vent or the coil when it gets hot fails

Done lots of them and have found a lot of the older ones don't fit tight on the crank- factory flaw- and in that case I replace the crank with a known good one around the shop and a lot of people won't agee with this but NWP makes a good crank- for the price of that bearing I usually replace it...

Had one that looked like that- the filter fell off the hose- replaced the line and filter

It is also easy to mistake the 4 stroking for the rev limited coil on that saw- thought it was lower than 12,500

The sheith sit in a slotted hole comming out of the handle- part of the trigger

I guess I look cool and impress the girls but I am ftom the west coast and find them necessary innner and outer dawgs- 372& 390 xp's

If you want to see to if your oiler is working take your bar and chain off and fire it up, should be coming out of the oil hole pretty good as long as your clutch drum is turning. and go from there about what was said about your chain and bar

If i can't get a reading and the saw is all sealed up I will dunk it in a tank of water- doing a 3120 lsat week- turns out they were using the K crank in it and leaked out the hole in the crank shaft under the clutch bearing area, never thought a fairly new saw would have the wrong crank in it-...

well kinda the way I look at it if it ran good before it got rebuilt sounds like the rebuiler did something wrong and you have an air leak- treat yourslf to a MV 8500 and it does a lot of other things besides just testing for air leaks in the kit- about 100$

probabably fried the worm on the oiler so its not oiling with all that heat.

Thank you

could you send me the the Hyway site you use - may old one doesn't let me cash out - just goes to error

just a wild guess but maybe the coil has lost it's brains - could replace it with a cheap china one and if it works then replace it down the line with oem

yup toast- might be mistaken for compresion for a half stuck piston- pres-vac test before you pull it down to see what caused that- pistons don't normally wake up in the morning and plan to die that day🧐