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It won't have the rpm the 262 and 261c have, but 10-10 has more torque and grunt. I often run full chisel chain and 20" bar on a 10-10 and even fully buried in hardwood it keeps chugging along. So 24" in softwood will be no problem, you just won't win any races.

You'll be fine running a 24" on there in softwood.

I've only fully rebuilt one Mac, a sp81, and I was able to gently tap pin out. Maybe I got lucky. On reinstall I throw pin in deep freezer for a couple hours, then just slightly warm piston with a propane torch...so I can still handle with a glove on no problem. Pin slips right in by hand.

I'd keep it around. 10-10 automatics are not rare so are typically only worth $50-$100 in running condition. Plus they cut good and sound great. I always have one on the shelf to pull out and get my Mac Fix. The loose boot can be solved by just sticking a pair of needle nose in there and...

10-10 varied quite a lot through the years, including in materials used to build them. Early magnesium saws are substantially lighter than later 10-10.

Yeah torquing flywheel onto crank taper really provides most of the holding force. I work on snowmobiles all the time and the clutches they use are just fitted to a tapered crank with no key at all. Some turbo 4 strokes are making in excess of 300hp and clutches don't slip.

So the inner magnets are to run heated handles right?

My saw is an ev, however I don't know about the flywheel. It has the magnets in inside diameter so guessing it's for an ev? Like I said I just bought it off eBay simply cause I couldn't find pawl springs.

Yeah all my other digits are same as yours. Do you need a flywheel? I only bought this one so I could steal pawl springs from it.

Mine says "K1" where yours has "L5". Rest of numbers are the same.

Husqvarna coil from many saws...350, 268, 272, etc can be fitted to work.

Yep nothing goes in my sleds, mower, snowblower, and saws but non-ethy. It's easy to get in northern NH. I keep a 35 gallon gas caddy in my sled trailer and make sure on last ride of year it comes home full of non-ethy for the summer season. I have had good luck with Husqvarna canned fuel from...

Yeah the quality of the rubber used for the diaphragms just doesn't seem as good. In my case I got a pile of saws including this one from a dealer all with unknown issues. Just trying to get each running at this point.

Thank you very much! I pulled my local ad and figure I might as well try and get saw running. If heated handles work it would be nice cutting in the wood pile this coming winter. Maybe it'll be a keeper.

Yes thanks Cantdog. I really like the feel and build of the 52. Excited to see how it performs.

On another note, looking for some help on my 451ev. Don't have a lot of time to deal with it so listed for sale locally but haven't had much interest. It's missing one of the starter pawl springs which has limited me from trying to measure compression and see if it'll at least fire on premix...

Figured I'd update my struggles with my 52 several pages back. It was recommended that I bend needle lever flat with carb body on diaphragm end. I tried that with no change to how it ran. Still wouldn't idle and tuning lo screw seemed to have no effect. I then realized lever that came in carb...

Or a 064, or a.....

All awesome points above. When spinning crank with flywheel on and coil in place don't be fooled when flywheel magnets line up with pick ups on coil. It'll be perceived as roughness in the bearings. Best to remove all that stuff as said above and spin crank assuring it's smooth.

It ran, but ran terrible when I got saw. Carb kitted it, incorrectly installed intake gasket provided....idled high. Put original gasket back in, started saw, roughly set carb screws, saw idled well and seemed to run good. I didn't have time to try and cut with it. Now won't start with issue...