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If you've got the original carb still on it - I'd like to add, the welch plugs on those can develop leaks because the sealant they used back then doesn't hold up to ethanol.

We'd need to see more of the piston, the ring and whole exhaust side of it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to look closely at your spark plug, make sure your impulse line isn't leaking. If you check that, and it's all fine - I'd really start suspecting there is an air leak somewhere downstream of the...

Symptoms point to a fuel delivery issue. If you've got a mityvac and some fittings for your fuel line & carb you can test the individual components and find the fault. If not you're basically just guessing.

MS 170/180 & 210/30/50 also always seem to have crap on the clean side of the filter.

Is your chain nice and sharp? Bogging in the cut suggests a lean running condition. If you have a tachometer - can you say how far it revs up unloaded? I believe spec for the 170 is around 13k. The hi speed jet in the carb for those can be changed to a larger or smaller one if it's running lean...

Just padlock your mix container so you know nobody could have opened it but you. :laugh:

That's a good point just did a drum on a... I think Husq 460. Had these sort of half moon springs in the clutch; easy enough to get out though - in fact easier than the 19mm Stihl's can be. I think I used an Echo style tool but it worked fine.

Clutch is 19mm on virtually all saws I've ever worked on; same size as your spark plug.

If you ever find yourself in the states, specifically southern Indiana look me up and I'll buy you a beer. :drinking:

You make a good point, if I'm honest I don't think even the fouled out plugs usually fail - just get a little persnickety maybe. Probably nothing fire couldn't cure. But when they get like that, I'll just change them - as part of the quote the customer approves. I think it's .50c one way and...

I understand that, and I think that's just a generational thing. Spark plugs are $2-3, but they're also usually not so worn out that they can't just be cleaned and re-gapped to work. Then again the time it takes to do that - from a labor standpoint, pretty much negates the cost of doing it. That...

I guess in a pinch, but plugs are like $2. Better to just keep a couple spares.

If your main line is way too long or too short it could conceivably cause this issue. But filters are weighted so it should always be on the bottom of wherever the fuel is resting. There's probably a scant few saws that the filter could get bound up somewhere the fuel ain't such as in a Stihl...

Heck if I know, but I've replaced the lines on about a million of them. The inlet line is a lot smaller than the return line, basically just use what will seal it up tight, cut an angle in the hose and use forceps to tug it through.

Our guy did that in a 193t once, since the caps are right next to each other it's an easy fix. I've also cleaned out a carburetor or 2 with maple syrup in them that the owner swears up and down he didn't put bar oil in the tank.

If you can get by without replacing seals & bearings and your crankcase seal is okay - in other words, not splitting the case, maybe. Otherwise that's a huge job you're describing, not to mention cost of parts you don't have.

Agree with above: suspect an air leak somewhere. Also pressure test your fuel lines & check them for cracking or breaking.

In terms of weight it seems closer to honey than motor oil to me. It's pretty globby stuff. Almost like that Lucas oil treatment you can use in your car.

That's what I mean, if you were out there and just had to get a bit done maybe using something less than optimal would pass - but yeah, still not an ideal scenario or a good idea to routinely fail to plan regularly.

There's a fine line between doing what's necessary to get the job done and just being a cheapass!