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GB do a D009 mount in 22" as well- if you can find them over there, excellent quality.

Ones I have are made in Germany blanks- heavy clear coat on them- but once that wears off- excellent bars.

I can still get those here- but perhaps our demand and market is not quite as big.

Sugi Hara do a 22 inch bar in large Husqvarna mount- not sure if they do a gauge other than 0.058 in it, but they certainly do that length, 76 drive link. Carlton Speed Tip pro bars are another option. Then there will also be cheaper Asian made bars like the E&S branded ones (not sure if you can...

1: Personally I have only ever used OEM 266 pistons in 266 rebuilds- so cannot tell you if the Proline might be better or not. 2: HS-163 or HS- 224 Tillotson should use an RK 23HS repair kit.

My life is just fine thanks- despite being exposed to many types of used oil and inconsequential reading.

Made perfect sense to those concerned- thats all that mattered. It makes no difference if I can tell you what transformer/transformers the oil came from- it is in the past and longer than 20 years ago. The only one that possibly knew it was ex transformer oil was he that was doing the buying at...

You people do read don't you? I said it was decades ago- employer supplied and we did not know what it was at the time until some years later- I do NOT use it now- nor did I suggest anyone here should. I also said it probably contains greeblies- JD being a human, I mean fellow Kiwi knows exactly...

It STINKS is a good one, especially for milling slabs. Then you can get into the greeblies you are not meant to be exposed to etc. I used used electrical transformer oil for a couple of years as it was the bar oil supplied by the employer- before the days of machine harvesting. Didn't hurt the...

If you drove the flywheel seal in and over the crank step- I give it a 50/50 you did not curl the inner lip and drop the spring onto the crank. No need for the addition of Yamabond- possibly a hinderance rather than a help. I usually just tell the saw to bite the pillow as this is getting...

Most run sprocket tipped bars with the chain too tight and most would be on the phone to the occupational health and safety crew if they saw correct tension on a hardnosed bar chain. :laugh:

Thats all well and good- but you are comparing stock to non stock with what you have built. My personal experiences are related to the stock saws as per the OP's saw.

Um- are you keeping up? This is NOT a regular stock standard seal- it does NOT seal on the crank- nor on the bearing pocket- this seal fits between inner and outer bearing race- miles larger ID than the crank stub- so no step to work over.

Frame the old one with the caption of "my first" and the date.

Well, at least you have the bonus of not having to guide the inner lip of the seal over a step in the crank! New one looks way nicer than the old.

Have a few of these fine old saws- personal opinion...... they will run a 36, but are happier doing so in 3/8 full skip chain while doing it. If you want to stay all 3/8- then as others have said above- just change the drive sprocket. Perhaps a bit underbarred with a 20? Burning fuel on wasted...

The 44mm cylinders might have been OEM Stihl cylinders- but were not OEM 024 Super cylinders- they had already been dicked with by someone before you got them, so not true supers no more- but upgrades to 026 spec. Or someone broke a top cover and was able to find one with an 024S tag to replace...

Well then I guess you have never seen an 024S then in that case. :laugh:

If that were the case- why call it an 024 Super and not just label it an 026? It has the STROKE of the 026, BORE of the 024. 024= 42mm bore 30mm stroke and around 41.5cc 024S= 42mm 32mm 44.3cc 026= 44mm 32mm 48.7cc.

Perfect 357XP territory- or the sister saw 359. Or get them in the more stylish red and black 2156 or 2159. Them there will make the 435 seem like some kind of famine suffering long lost cousin and should kick aside the old lumpy 311 with ease :laugh: