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Yikes. Maybe they should have used a hardened or thickly chrome plated pin. Must be embedding grit in the plastic and acting like a lap.

Yep I see. Kind of like that new way better where the drive is off the sprocket so the oil pump isn't always running without the chain turning. Although it's not that big a deal really, I don't leave my saws idling for much of any length of time.

Yeah definitely not the same. Don't mind me...:D

Not sure if this is the same as the R420, but in my saw the pin pushes on a ratcheting mechanism that spins. This spinning part is the oil pump, not the pin itself.

If you have seen both and are familiar with the exact jugs you might be able to tell them apart, but for the average joe just looking it isn't always obvious. Some brands' open port cylinders are pretty plain to see due to bulges on the outside, some are not. In any case, the difference will not...

No.

Closed port left side vs. open port right side. Pretty self-explanatory once you see it.

Might be better to look for an older 8000 if you want to replace it. I've got one of the early orange models befire they went to gray and back to orange again (mine has the bigger carb that that used back then) and it is a runner. I know a guy who has one of the newer orange 8000s and it is...

I don't adjust in the cut... just listen during the cut then stop and adjust. Want the 4-stroking to start as soon as there's no cutting load. I find it hard to hit the sweet spot using the full throttle under no load method. I.E. is that 4-stroking enough? Maybe too much? The shift away from 4-...

I like the "in the cut" method for high speed adjustment. I set mine so they are four stroking as soon as they are not under load anymore at full throttle. As soon as they go back under load they clean right up.

Don't know how to tell the year, but I have an early cs-8000 with serial 0001626, and it's a ripper. I think the earliest models were among the best in terms of power by the descriptions and video I've seen of the later ones in comparison to the way mine cuts. For sure they have a much larger...

Very cool. I just lucked into a CS-8000 a few days ago for under $100. Good compression, starts easily, came with the 27" bar. Mine is an early version and has the big HDA-45 carb. I've only cut a little with it but so far so good. Eventually I'll muffler mod and port it.

For the HS-117B you need repair kit RK-23HS. Searching for that should get you what you need.

First missing part made. Tool steel, tempered back to about 55Rc hardness. Originals were probably case hardened but the one I've got is right about that surface hardness. I made this at home with a grinder, a file, belt sander, a propane torch and an oven for tempering. Luckily had some ⅛"...

That table was posted earlier in this thread as well. I only know that because I read all 100+ pages last week. Don't ask me where it was though! :)

Yeah that's why I'd probably just rather make the parts. Hate to continue to pile on to the parts saw: runner saw ratio if I don't have to. Both of the ones I need appear to be plain old nylon, which is pretty easy to machine.

Ok got the oil pump out on my believed to be R420. There was a little bit of a lift and twist "just so" involved then it popped right out. Next question: anyone know the spec for the pushrod length? The crank side plastic bit definitely appears worn down compared to the pump end. Also it would...

If that 50mm is correct, you've got a 70cc saw. I've wondered about that piston/ cylinder interchange question myself. But parts are so scarce you might have a tough time sourcing a larger piston/ cylinder to try without getting the whole saw along with!

Danke schön meinen Freund!

Thanks! I tried moving it around a little after the screw was out but it didn't seem like there was enough room to squeak it through. Didn't remove the hoses though. I DID remove the flywheel, (That baby was ON there. Came off with a hell of a pop.) definitely doesn't come out that way.