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Yeah, when you get your bud to answer the question and you pass it off as your knowledge just like the pig used to do for you with other subjects. Fraud.

:laughing: :laughing: ”30,000 handle bar hours” and you can’t tension a chain where you don’t have to stop to loosen it up? Fraud.

What logger can’t run a saw with a 20 inch bar where the chain doesn’t tighten up on him because lack of oil or the chain too tight initially? This is a regular occurrence according to you. “I have to loosen my chain when cutting”. Fraud.

Fraud.

The best was when the pig he drug here would type posts for him and he would copy and paste them as his own.

You can’t lay down a thick enough smokescreen to hide from this statement of yours. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/premature-bar-wear-mystery-on-new-ms-661-c-m.346752/post-7404166 “30,000 handle bar hours”? Pfffft.

I bet I’d be able to get a sling way hotter and way looser than a little man like you ever have. Not like I ever would, but bet I can. What a pig!

Anyone who’s run a saw knows the chain gets looser when in use from normal heat, not tighter. This isn’t something that we need formulas for. The boaster jumped in and showed he don’t know what the hell he’s talking about.

Another fuggin boaster meltdown? Smokescreens for his fraud exposure. Good times!

No, running a longer bar when not necessary is a waste of money. Why use up expensive bars and chains when you can use up cheaper ones, why sharpen more cutters when you can sharpen less, why oil your bar and chain less when you can oil them more reducing wear, why put more stress on your...

I never said what you’re claiming. Go back and reread, it's in the post you quoted when you made this asinine claim. Apples and oranges compared to the OP’s scenario. I’ll repeat, there’s more negatives for him than positives, a lot more, your scenario I can understand, you’re setup with it...

I was going to convert mine to 3/8 also just for sharpening reasons and having the same chain on all the saws. I even bought the 3/8 small spline 7t rim. I just never did it, probably will after I use up this bar and chains. I would always pass on a 20 inch bar with the 261 though, strictly for...

About what?

Stick with the .325 if you’re not concerned about minuscule cut times and go with a 16 inch if you feel what you have currently is too short. Your thinking is perfect imo with your bar lengths. Jumping up to an 18 is senseless when you run a 20 on your 461. .325 and 16 on a 261 is an awesome...

My point was he ain’t walking into a local dealer to find a replacement if needed. It’s a senseless conversion that has many more negatives than positives.

Again, let’s see these dramatic times to make this worth it for the OP.

I just don’t see the need to run a longer bar than necessary. Like I stated, the saw oils better, there’s less cutters to sharpen, bars and chains are cheaper, there’s less wear and tear on the powerhead and the saw will outperform with an undersized bar than oversized. 60cc saws are a useless...

So let’s direct the OP to do a conversion where he can’t get anything here in the U.S. So when his rim wears out, he’s gotta order from over seas, if his bar gets fugged up, he’s gotta order from over seas, if he needs a new loop, he’s gotta get someone to spin him up one or invest in the tools...

People are making this too difficult. The saw is amazing with how it’s set up from the factory. 063 .325 and a 16 inch bar is the perfect length. It’s silly to put a 18 inch bar on this saw when you have a 461 with a 20 on it. No need to be converting this 261 to 3/8 pico either imo. You still...

Had a bunch of pin oak sitting on my trailer waiting for the weather to cool off and finally got it brought home. Working on 2023-2024 wood now. And spit.