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is there a number stamped near the keyways ?

i,ve straightened a few of those cranks, i usually tip it on its side and pull the cord to check for runout, they are popular with uk contractors, and are $1.5k ish, so well worth repairing

the kubota 130cc engines i do for the bowling green mowers have a very crude decompressor that jabs the inlet valve open a tad just before tdc, and they suffer blowback, with fuel being sucked up the mainjet twice, and if the valve clearance is too tight it dumps too much compression, and that...

my understanding is its a very low pressure backflow because of the crankcase volume, and once running the inlet tract flow/momentum is a strong pressure against the feeble backflow, so it is minimal and helps lube the engine anyway

kart pulse pump maybe ? with a tap off the exhaust expansion chamber and silicon pipe (like the aeromodellers use) very impressive build :)

it was the little end on the last 2 br,s i did

we used a lot of black loncin gx copies, took the governor off and skimmed the heads. they got ragged at 5.5k rpm on 2 hour enduro events no probs

plenty of twin engine karts around eh, we used to easily get 10hp from the gx200,s cheap mounts/clutches/sprockets too

global problem, because fuel has been dirt cheap for years (subsidised) saw this coming years ago, and bought one of these in 2018

if it has a choke lever, then its just a purge bulb

good call on the belleville washers on the sprocket :)

it only takes 5 mins to attach a strobe and spin the f/w with a cordless drill, i use a black felt tip pen and look for about 0 deg at slow, and 20 deg at drill speed

the square on the end of the shaft, they munch their way down into the clutch bell, and poke through eventually

i come across a few with worn squares on the shaft

a little centrifugal finger on the cam that jabs the valve open to dump some compression when starting, if you open that adjustment 1 turn you should feel a lot more compression when starting, and it should pinpoint that chugging problem

i usually wet the filter with fuel, to rule out any other issues, and to confirm its a carb problem

might be the de-compressor sticking ? a wide rocker gap will over-ride/delete the de-compressor

does sound like carb eh, does it rev better with the choke half on ?

i spin them with a drill and marker pen to test the timing light personally, the electronic coils are usually 0 deg at cranking speed

i find they are stronger if you grind 2 or 3 mm off the end (sheared a few on old stihls) so that the bit where the spline starts to thicken is just entering the bolthead, because thats where they shear off