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Never burn wood with poison vines on it, the oil can be inhaled as it burns and inhaled causing a whole new allergic issue as the allergen compounds in the urushiol oil get carried into the air and inhaled into your throat, mouth, lungs, etc. It can also settle on unsuspecting bystanders as...

I've had a couple of 10-10 saws over the years, both were great work horses. They don't bring more than $75 in minty condition around here. That one looks like its been sitting in the mud or something, the muffler and cylinder has dirt or fine saw dust from a dull chain baked onto it. Maybe a...

I had a pair of MS250 saws here myself for a bit, I sold them pretty quick after getting tired of sore knuckles from starting them. I've owned just about every saw Stihl has made over the years and the MS250 is by far the hardest to pull start. There was just a long thread about another guy who...

Your a long way from PA. I'm not sure it would be worth all the hassle to ship. I also haven't decided what I'm doing with it yet. I was going to hit a few local shops to see if someone maybe has a better tank assembly for it before I do anything.

The problem is that while it'll dissipate heat quick, its also going to make the plastic get hotter as it draws heat from the muffler side. The plastic on it isn't getting all that hot now, maybe I'm just not running it long enough. For the $26 that tin would cost me, I can spend a few more...

It was like this when I bought it. I gave $100 for this, a pair of 015L saws and an MS250. The MS250 and the MS200T both run and cut wood. The 015L saws both need fuel lines, bars, and chains. I didn't put any value on the 015L's, but they both do start if I spray fuel mix at the carbs. The...

The muffler contacts the heat shield now, its pretty much a zero clearance deal above the plastic. The heat shield, which is nothing more than a foil decal of sorts, is pretty much touching the muffler, when I tighten the bolts on the plastic, I'm pulling the plastic tight against the muffler...

Here's a bottom pic, the thing looks like its melting. I don't suppose I've run it long enough to get it to the point where the bottom is that soft again but the damage is bad enough that the saw don't sit flat anymore. The saw sounds fine, not particularly loud or anything. There's a thin...

I picked this up cheap the other day, it runs and cuts great but looks pretty bad. The entire bottom of the saw is melted. I pulled the tank and the plastic has only a thin metal shield stuck to it between the muffler and the plastic. I ran it for a few hours the other day and it didn't get hot...

It looks just like a bar grinder you can buy at Bailey's but with a slotting cutter option vs. just the bar edge stone.

I doubt if this thing is from China, it doesn't look very new, and the finish on it is the old almost textured off white that Stihl used years ago. (The newer bars are smoother finished). By chance I was talkin to an old timer today at a truck stop diner. He was telling me he ran a tree...

That's a better combination than the one shop we had here for a while, they were a cell phone shop that started selling Stihl, Husky, and Shindawa equipment. They were overpriced, new nothing about the products and didn't last very long. They sold out to a big chain who turned it into an ACE...

A machine shop is an option but I was thinking that maybe an older saw shop may still have a bar dressing set up. The machine I remember was a cast iron table about 18x18 inches, with a flat cutting wheel that stuck up at the right height above the table. There was an adjustable fence and the...

With the "West Germany" on this bar its definitely pre 1990 or so. I just don't know how far back. If they rolled it, the sides are still perfectly flat, no sign of rolling. Plus, there's still spots where the factory paint hasn't worn off where the chain rides. I don't think its seen enough...

I dug up an old feeler gauge set, the bar groove on this thing measures .039" or basically 1 mm. I can't say I've ever seen a chain with drive links that thin? I'm wondering if I can just cut this groove open to .050? The bar is pretty thick, thicker than most smaller gauge chains. Now I'm...

Well said. As a seller, I got bit a couple times by buyers who claimed 'not as described', then sent back a different item or brick in the box. As a buyer, I buy where ever I get the best deal. Lately its been about 50/50 between a local shop and online. The issue I've got about online is...

It don't look or 'feel' like Chinesium, besides, the "West Germany" would put it pre-1989 or earlier. Even being 30+ years old, I didn't think Stihl changed their bar patterns over that period? I own an 032 and an 041, both from the early 80's, both share bar patterns with my 029. My thought...

I picked this up at a flea market for a buck this morning with hopes it would fit something I've got. I was thinking its a normal Stihl mount but the slot measures 11.5mm and out of over a hundred chains I've got lying around here, I can't find a single one that fits in the groove. There are...

This sort of reminds me of something they taught us in marketing years ago called implied value. The experiment was to take an ordinary used car, a '77 Pinto to be exact. With 95,000 miles and no third gear. We were to each list the car and advertise it in a way to get the highest possible...

Sounds like he fixed that issue at least in part by drilling the hole in the bar. He did say it was spraying oil on the chain, so the pump was working. It just wasn't getting under the chain. The combo of thin oil and drilling the bar likely cured that. Would I want to own it, not a chance...