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I have the Jonsered version of the 455 Rancher (CS2255). It is a good running saw. I run a 20" bar and it does everything I ask of it. It gets heavy after while, but what saw doesn't?

From the head to the end of the screw is about 3/4" (20mm). The outside of the screw diameter including the threads is about 6mm (almost 1/4"). The threads are pretty course. The head is unusual to say the least.... It is 11mm (7/16) in diameter and nearly 1/4" thick (5.5mm) and it accepts a 4mm...

You are correct. I can get the whole part for a decent enough price. I just hate to buy more than I need to fix the saw. I only need a valve stem, not the wheel and tire. Thank you again...

Yeah, I was afraid of that. Thanks for your help. A guy can hope can't he?

Thanks, but I am not sure that is the one I need.

I have a Husqvarna 350. I need a screw for it. I looked online, but I cannot find the part number for JUST the screw. What I did find was a part number for the whole vibration absorber (503854101). I do not need the whole part, just the screw that goes inside the spring and screws into the gas...

Thanks for the suggestions. I know it at least leaks some from this point. I would suspect it is at least 75%. I have not completely torn the saw apart yet (I am going to be replacing the intake clamp, boot and partition soon as the "bellows" comes in), but so far I have not seen any other way...

It looks like it should have one, but it did not. I looked on some parts diagrams, but no o ring those either. I do not see how it could be completely sealed without one. Thanks for the input.

First, thanks for your input. I have had this saw for a long time. It has leaked since I got it second hand from my former boss. I do not know exactly when he got it, but the serial number seems to indicate that it is a 2003 model. The saw has sat unused for the past several years. For a long...

I have a 2003 model Husqvarna 350 that is leaking bar oil from around the "screen" on the bottom of the crank case. I took the "screen" off and there is no o-ring or gasket of any kind (maybe that is why it leaks). There is also a small hole next to the screw that holds the "screen" on that...

Okay, my replacement muffler, bracket, gasket and screws just came in. The new muffler is hollow. Nothing but an empty box with the tubes inside to prevent the screws from crushing it. Out of curiosity, I took the muffler off of my 350 and saw that it is the same way. Hollow box. Took a look at...

So, basically the idea is to take the muffler apart, remove any baffles or internal "stuff" and then put a piece of 3/4" pipe in a hole in the muffler at an angle so it blows toward the top of the chain and then weld it in and re-install the muffler. I assume that after the exhaust is opened up...

Catalytic converters?!?!?! I don't think I have one of those saws...

Are the mufflers just a hollow "box" with some slits under a cover or something? I have not seen the inside yet. I ordered a kit for my 350 that comes with a muffler and a bracket like goes on a 346XP to try and keep the muffler from coming loose, though to date the muffler has never been loose.

I belive I have watched all of his videos on the 350 along with Walt at afleetcommand, but I don't recall seeing any how-to vids on muffler mods. I will look again. Thanks

New to saw mods. Would any of you guys have any links to any good muffler mod videos? I have 3 saws and I am wanting to see if I can get at least a modest boost from a muffler mod. I have a 40cc Craftsman, a Husky 350 and a Jonsered 2255. Thanks!

I am new to this and I am sure someone has asked before, but bear with me . I got several acres of woodland and I want to thin it out. I figure if I can sell some of this wood for firewood, why not. I don't have a fireplace myself, but I have friends and coworkers who do. I know that red oak...