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Mine has a seperate button for the stobes. Thanks for the response though.

I have.....can't seem to find the proper for it. Posts from the RV forums show that button as an 'Exhaust/Engine Brake'. I'll keep digging.

I'm seeking the assistance of members that have run this same set up......as described in the message title. The truck's owners manual has very little information about this feature. I have found a little info on RV forums, as lots of large RV's use the 8.1L Workhorse, but most discussions...

With regards to 'Snap Cuts', I personally feel that they are a vital resource to an arborist. Yes, they aren't always needed or required, but when you are in a certain location or situation that you need a little more control and don't have enough room to rig them down.....snap cuts work great...

Oregon makes a great bar. I agree with John that the Intenz bar is more suited to the occasional user. It's main benefit isn't the bar/chain tensioner, but actually the low kickback that the narrow tip provides. The Pro91 is more intended for the serious/experienced user. Its anti-kickback...

Denatured Alcohol or Methyl Alcohol. Dissinfects and because it's an alcohol, you don't have to worry about rusting your tools. Maybe not as economical as the bleach/water mix, but it's a sacrifice that I'm willing to make to not rust my stuff. Spray 'Brake Cleaner' works amazing for...

When I installed the temperary support straps, I aerially climbed through the surrounding canopy (not out to the very tips) and looked for any bare cambium, cracks, and other damages indured from the lightning strike. The only area of concern that I encountered was that of the pre-existing...

I have also considered the installation of a lightning protection system on this oak. I agree that if a tree was vulnerable once, why would it not be again! I would like to be able to install the system in an inconspicuous manner. Any input on this approach would be greatly...

I would like to begin by thanking everyone for there input and comments. The overall consensus is much the same as what I had planned on doing. It is just nice to be reassured. On large diameter, mature trees I typically prefer to brace with two staggered rods below the union and...

Here the other pics.... Thanks again

Hello everyone. I'm wanting to pool the collective experience and knowledge of the group to aid me in decided how to approach the following tree problem. I have attached a few pics to illustrate what I'm talking about. The red arrows illustrate the relative path of the furrow/crack of...

Wow..........this thread is really based on a one-sided, extremely biased stereotype. ...All climbers are more educated and ambitious... ...All bucket operators are ignorant and lazy... ...All girls are weak... ...All boys are strong... Seriously. Wow! If the bucket operators that...

I too quote a job on what the tree needs not the method by which the work will be done. If everyone was to quote in that manner, the good and efficient climbers and bucket operators would end up being penalized for their efficiency. I know as a business owner, overhead can be enormous and I...

What do you do when you get over 16 inches. I prefer the 14" bar due to personal preference. When the diameter gets to be too much for this bar a upgrade to a larger saw/bar combo to get the job done. Typically, start with the 14" - MS200T, then go to 18" - MS260, then 28" - MS460Mag and if...

As mentioned above, conventional notches will break the hinge upon closing. This causes the trunk or limb to typically jump forward due to forward momentum. Depending on the situation, this can be a desired outcome. However, it is sometimes better for the trunk to stay attached to the stump so...

I personally like the 14". I've found that it is far easier to climb through branch crotches with the shorter bar. I know that 2" doesn't sound like much, but it can become frustrating in certain situations. I also like the balance that a 14" bar provides.

Depends on the week. Typically 2 to 6 gallons. When comparing time between my bigger saws and that of my arborist saws, the larger ones typically consume far more. But this is sometimes an indication of more physical labour. Which isn't always a good thing. With that said, the true...

Your aunt's story/hypothesis is much like the theory that one can make a tree grow faster than normal if you shake the trunk of the tree to the point of insanity. The thought is that you are scaring the tree into thinking that it is going to die, therefore, making it grow to the upmost...

The tree may be getting crowded.......slightly. The relative dbh is within inches of the neighboring trees. The probability of moisture stress seems unlikely due to the abundance of rain that we have received this spring/summer. However, if root rot is the case, this could perhaps explain the...

Much like Tom, I always have my Silky Zubat attached to my shin. On larger scale jobs, I also carry a Stihl MS200 with a 14" bar. On really large take-downs, I sometimes rig-in and use a MS460 Magnum, but this isn't the easiest on the lower back!