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Thanks guys. I was hoping I wouldn't hear it was a boat anchor. It'll b interesting to see exactly what 'broken piston' means....

i grabbed a 281 complete with bar and chain (20 something inchs) from a pawn shop the other day. the tag said 'broken piston'. i have $40.00 in it. its not here with me at the moment, nor have i looked inside it yet. at a glance it seems in decent shape. i already have the mighty 7900...

sheared key.

mine: stihl 037. hybrid build with 038m top end on 036 bottom.

damn i missed out on this one. :( i was going to suggest the name: TLANDRUMMERIZED

Yeah, same here......... I asked that plant biologist jerk ONE SIMPLE QUESTION about my Citrus trees, tomato plants, hemp (you know, for rope), junipers, False cypress, and sassafras and he never replied to me either. Some say he changed his username. I wonder what his handle is now?

i want to know what the hell ever happened to that 'PLANT BIOLOGIST' guy. you guys remember him from a year or two back? that hippie is probably skipping throught the forest, giggling like a schoolgirl, high on shrooms he found. or maybe his bammboo and coconut computer broke...

cool. the used one would be fine. let me know what you find and what you need for it. thanks!

i need an oil tank for a homelite super 2 VI. it appears to be the version with two perfect circles on the front that mate with the fuel tank. got green stuff to trade.

is #16 supposed to slide? it was all i could do to remove it from the saw body. i assume it is supposed to be a pressed fit? it looks like when the rod on the back side of #15 goes all the way in it blocks the inlet hole and outlet on #16. i don't get how this thing is supposed to work. if...

very cool guys. thanks.

awesome guys! what does #16 in the diagram do? i am getting lots of air pulse to pressurize the tank and i know the pulse is entering through tthe line with the duckbill... but the oil from the tank isn't flowing through the spot where it enters the clamshell above #16 and exits just...

i have a little xl top handle here with an oiler issue. it pumps a lot of oil but the oil doesn't come out of the oiler hole at the bar. it is coming out inside the saw body somewhere. all of the lines have been replaced one by one and it still does it. the tank is not leaking. there...

i know i'm no help now.... but i have had great luck just popping an electronic stihl 009 coil on and runnin' it. the timing winds up being of 2-3* but the 3-4 020av i have done this to run and cut great.

i might have another fin-less cylinder laying around that i could ship out to someone for a rebuild....................... :msp_biggrin:

when replaceing the fuel line.... use the 2nd fuel pickup line extension too if you can get one. sometimes the saw will run out of fuel even with fuel in the tank... the line/pickup is too short from the factory. there is a lot going on at the carb adapter flange on that saw. make sure you...

Bull####. In the automotive world companies are compelled to repair under warranty as long as mods weren't made to the failed system. The dealer should get his head out of his ass and/or Husqvarna can go to hell.

i've been away a few weeks... theres no way im reading 1400 posts... how does this work? built to the owners' specs?

i've used canola straight and blended at different ratios with bar oil. fact is that canola has very high lubricity. off the top of my head, when i researched it way back when, i want to say it had higher lubricity than bar oil. but it has no tackifiers so it flings off the bar. in...

i have one but it isn't pretty. it has a lengthwise crack running from the interlock slot toward the front about two inches long. but it isn't broken completely. i dunno if it is any better than what you have already but you can have it if you want it.