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You may want to look into refrigiwear. I used them for 10 years working in a -20* freezer and had no complaints. I have a set now that I cant use much because i get way to hot in them even when its 10* out they are too much. Check them out www.refrigiwear.com

They have been very good to me and this is the dealer that i found a 60$ running 441 that was ran over. they also have a bunch of used saws in the back for parts or repair.

My local dealer is on facebook and has offered a discount for ideas for their sign. I dont have any good ideas but with all the banter that goes on here from time to time I think there may be a few good ones out there so be a fan and postem up...

Just checked my 260 to make sure of my gauge and it is reading 160psi so I dont think its my gauge.

My gauge has worked fine on my other saws& my truck so i dont think it was my gauge. Im pretty sure i have it lined out and the guy picked it up today so we'll see if he calls back. I had him come get it to try out. The only wood i have around right now is for me to burn not going to make a...

thanks. this guy has taken it somewere before and the limiter caps are m.i.a. So i was kinda flying blind into this one.

forgot to put that in. NO scoring P&C look great. It still runs ok after i cleaned and adj. the carb. starts good if you use the primer( not used to that lol) idles good revs out and cuts as good as it can with a 20" bar and saftey chain in dead elm. just wondering about the comp. & how far out...

I am working on a newer 455 rancher and the comp. is way low 90-100 cold 120 warm just didnt know if the strato saws ran lower? and if the carb adj. the needles out fruther i.e. 1 1/2-2 turns out? this is my first strato saw to work on so i dont know if this is the norm for them any help? thanks

Nitro It toasted from strait gas I think. Yes the limiter caps will be gone. One thing is with the caps on I can only turn the H out 1/2 turn. I don't mess with to much Husky/J-Red stuff is that normal? Seems WAY to lean even from the factory. Does anyone have the Bore/Stroke spec...

Info courtesy of Brad for a 460 P&C on a 440 The saw is done except for a few odds and ends. This was a marathon build and I did not get detailed pics of the conversion details. They're not difficult though, just time consuming. Here's a summary. 1. Slot the cylinder base mounting...

I have a j-red 2149 that the P&C has been toasted in about the fourth tank of gas. On a hunch I went to my local j-red dealer to see if I could swap a 2153 P&C. He did not know but he called another tech who said that it will fit with no mods. I would like to try but dealers are not to keen on...

Does anyone have anymore?

do you have that in mm?

My 076 kept doing the same thing. Turned out that either the fuel filter was deteriorating or it was letting very fine dust through. It kept plugging up the screen in the carb, the one that is between the metering & pump side of the carb.

Does anyone have the stroke specs on the current pro saws from both husky & stihl? 026/260, 036/360, 361, 044/440, 046/460, 064/066/660, 346,357,372,385,395 and the dolmar/makita stuff

Thanks Troll and to all others contributing keep them coming

Thanks Kevlar this is the type of info I was going for in this thread. As well as simple swaps

Does anyone have spec's to go along with some of this info? i.e. piston bore size, compression height, wrist pin dia., and stroke of respective saws? Just trying to put as much info in one thread as possible.

041&041 super to put super P&C on non case you have to put in the super studs instead of the bolts 051 to 075/076 P&C you must drill&tap the 5mm cyl screws to 6mm and use the 075/076 studs. And you have to use the 075/076 intake and muffler

I have 3 off the old ones and the are heavy as hell but I find it hard to put them down for the new saws because of the brute power of the old ones.( p.s. I got her twin if you want to send her home Ill give you the shipping info....hell Ill even pay the shipping....lol)