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It is possible the piston fit isn't that great. I have noticed that cheap AM cylinder kits tend to make less compression and the pistons will have a fair bit of slop in the bore and this may be one reason why the carb is ejecting fuel vapour. If the carb is set far too rich, this could also...

I would expect the blow back through the carb to be caused by blow by past the piston skirt (inlet side) through wear on the piston or bore, incorrect piston so the skirt doesn't seal the inlet port or someone may have widened the inlet port without understanding that the skirt must cover each...

Definitely AM, it would have "A" or "B" on that small flat plate by the spark plug hole if it was OEM. Try Meteor or Hyway as AM replacements or get a good second-hand kit.

So true - new means working......completely throws you when it doesn't!

It looks like it may have ingested a little dirt through the air filter but looks in good shape for its age. You haven't shown the exhaust side of the piston which is the usual side that fails but it is probably because it looks OK. If the compression is 150+ then you are fine to go.

Cuts are generally curved it the rails on the bar are uneven, the chain is a loose fit between the rails or the cutters on one side of the chain are blunt or worn. Generally uneven rails are more likely to cause a curved cut and a loose fit chain due to a worn groove between rails giving a chain...

Sometimes the fuel dries out when an old saw is left on the shelf and leaves thick oil around the bore and this seals it up and gives a higher than normal compression. Other than this, the carb could have a leaking needle valve that has filled up your crankcase with fuel so worth pulling the...

The symptoms of an air leak are 1) screaming on WOT 2) A fast idle that the idle adjustment screw has little effect on and may need the L screw to be unscrewed to bring the idle down 3) Holding on to revs after WOT and not falling to a steady idle straight away after the throttle is closed. 4)...

There is never a need to file that much off a ring, perhaps a thou or two but that looks to be the wrong ring. Either purchase a correct one or get a replacement one from the seller!

It is possible that the autotune just needs to be reset as you describe however, leaks and also excessive end gap on the ring can cause the autotune to keep stalling. If you hook it up to the Husqvarna interface, it will give you an idea if you have a leak as the H setting will be well on the...

Looks like it has bruised much of the exhaust port roof, possibly circlip damage or a misguided piston stop! I would measure the compression, 145-150PSIis sort of where you need to be, any lower and I would be concerned. I usually take the piston with rings and push it up and down the bore and...

Those port shapes look like the saw has been parked up for a while and the aluminium has a witness mark on it which is nothing serious. The piston skirt should have around 2-3 thou on it when pushed to one side and measured on the other. You can usually push the piston in to the bore and move it...

My take would be that a rebuild would be damn expensive, if it were my only saw and a new one was out of the question then I may run it and rebuild it during a quiet period. If the saw isn't a primary saw and if it goes pop and you would just grab another one then just run it for as long as you...

Yes, if it is done properly. The important things are sticking to known maximum reliable port widths, known minimum squish and also being very careful with the port shape and level of bevelling on the modified ports. The last bit is to ensure the saw has been given a pressure and vac test, had a...

Take the plug out, turn the ignition off, turn the saw upside down and pull it over hard a few times until no more vapour comes out of the saw. Heat the plug up with a plumbers torch etc. Put it back and don't use the decomp valve or the choke and see if it will fire. It may take a serious drop...

Make sure the metering needle has it's spring fitted correctly as if it isn't, the needle will leak and flood. If you can, put pressure on the fuel inlet union and see if the carb leaks. Try this with and without the metering diaphragm in place to make sure the assembled carb will still hold...

Beware, this is with limit caps fitted! if they have been removed, these settings may well seize your saw!

It sounds like it has an air leak under vacuum to me as holding on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut is one of those signs. I would have also expected the carb to need more than one turn out on the H & L screws to stabilize the idle and flat out running. I would check the impulse line...

The "A/B or C" by the plug hole comes from when Husqvarna matched the cylinder with a piston of the same size so an "A" cylinder was matched with an "A" piston. Now they are still stamped but there is only an AB piston available.

The packing of ebay purchases is sometimes near to a joke. I don't believe you can weld this Mag alloy but am sure someone will say you can. I would craft a couple of plates and bolt them through either side of the break and use a bit of JB weld to strengthen it.