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This is ridiculous

It also looks to me like the rivets have been rubbing possibly between the case and bar clamping piece (whatever the name is...). I've seen this when running RS chain on a Husky 353--its real sensitive to how much and in what order you tighten the two nuts.

new, it was probably $275-$300 (I'm guessing, but I paid just over that during that timeframe for a 353).

I do the rakers using my Northern grinder with the 1/4" wheel, but rather than setting it at 90 deg, I set it at 75 or 80 deg--this gets the correct height and also angles the leading edge down - it works quite nicely. You can play with the angle, but the intent is to set the raker to the...

I like mine-got it several years ago w/the 72dl 18" bar. Its .325x.050. I've run the 23RS, the stock chain and the chisel/semi chisel from Baileys--liked the semi from Baileys the best. Its a good saw for my needs. I recently removed the base gasket and did a bit of porting/polishing on it...

Isn't 3/8 lo pro actually .365" or something, not .375"--at least at Bailey's, thats the case if you look at the chain.

Good point about the chain brake. I don't have a real need for the 066, but it could come in handy sometimes. Whats a "normal or typical" used selling price for the 066 in fair shape?

Now with pics. The 077 is apparently a 017, but I can't make out the MS???. Can anyone help identify it and offer opinions on the saws worths? Thanks for any help! The 066 would seem to be a fair deal if it runs ok, however I'm concerned that the 066 is actually written in marker on the...

Thats what I thought--I've asked for some pics--I'll let you know what they are.

There's a guy close to me selling the above saws for $250 apiece. He says they all run and are complete. I haven't seen them or pictures of them. Any thoughts--good deal, bad deal, what to look for or ask? Also, I've googled the 077 and can't find any reference to it--did they even make...

Looks to me like you at least need a piston and ring--not sure about the cylinder. Bummer, what happened?

I think it looks great, but I have one question. If you remove the gasket, why cut a goove in it? It seems to me that two machined surfaces will seal much better with some gasket maker than two surfaces, one of which has a groove in it. The only reason I could see to groove it would be to...

I just did some minor porting and cleaning up of my Husky 353 and had fair luck removing the transfer covers. I used a very small dremel spherical burr to grind the tit out but on the last one, I hit the side a bit, screwed up the torx fit and couldn't get it out--I can get it out but I didn't...

Thanks for the input-I'll use the gasket eliminator. My saw is the 353-I've read about worrying about "squish"--anyone know whether I need to worry about it on this saw? Does it make sense to raise the top of the ports by the gasket thickness to keep port timing the same, or does lowering...

I have a question about the base gasket removal - actually maybe several questions. I've read that some folks (some are pretty well known as I understand it) remove the gasket when modding their saws.....if you do this, do you use a hi-temp RTV in its place to ensure no air leaks? Also, if...

My guess is you could start one, turn on the ignition of the other one and simply rev up the first one--it would likely start just like bump-starting a manual transmission car.

Thanks Hardknocks--for some reason I thought that was the case, but not having it apart and comparing pieces, I wasn't sure. Now I'll buy everything the first time and save a trip. Wonder why the same saw is apparently offered with both spur and rims? Is this common?

duh, that would have been helpful--sorry. Its the 353 and it seems somewhere I heard/saw that the drive needed to be changed, but I figured I'd ask the experts. thanks b

I'm in need of a new sprocket and am thinking of changing the current spur sprocket to the rim style. When I get the parts (along w/new bearing) do I have to change the oil pump drive at all, or will it mate up just fine? thanks

Here's the deal as I see it. You need to use an oil that meets the API-TC specifications, not TC-W3 (for water cooled 2 strokes). Whether you use synthetic or mineral is user choice, however there is some data that suggests that a casual (less frequent) user should stick to mineral as it has...