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Torque in one end must equal torque out the other end, so you can torque with a long flexy extension... The impact wrench can't keep torquing, because its impulses only last a fraction of a revolution, and it looses it all before the bar is "wound" enough to transmit the desired torque...

I would repair that with pop rivits, sheet metal and some sealant myself... Haven't had much long-term luck with JB weld on flexible plastics... J

Tygon gets soft and squishy with the heat and fuel vapour there... Absorbs much of the pulse... Black Stihl line (or similar) is a better choice. J

Like Fish, I tighten'em, but I don't torque'em to a specification... Just make'em "Tight". J

LOL.... I've heard it said that tilling is no easier than hand-turning a garden, just faster. My experience has born that out.. :cheers: Good luck! J

If the carb gets its pulse thru its mounting flange, be sure you didn't obstruct the pulse passage in the flange... Say, by reversing the gasket, or by overzealous use of sealant.... And be sure that the gasket seals that passage well too! Common error! J

First thing that comes to mind is that the carb may not yet be cleaned.... Up to you if you buy that or not, LOL. Didja remember to set the needles to the initial settings? Closed needles won't allow fuel flow. I've seen a few times that a dry rebuilt (or new!) carb wouldn't draw fuel...

If the one the dealer has is soft and flexible, shiny new, use it.

You need to service the inlet needle and seat in the carburetor. They're located under the metering diaphragm (typically, the side with a hole in the cover, cover retained by 4 screws). I'd just get a carb kit for the saw, and replace the needle, seat and metering diaphragm since I'd be in...

Motoseal is designed for engines that are "frequently disassembled".. It's a sealant, and has pretty minor adhesive qualities. I use Motoseal 1... Grey.... Higher temp rating. J

I usually use white vinegar for carb cleaning... Easier on my hands. Works well with an old toothbrush... Rince well when you're done, and chase out teh water with wd40.... J

Brake and carb cleaners can be hard on any plastic/rubber parts. Only use them on disassembled carb bodies. Many people also melt the main nozzle check valve with carb cleaner.... J

Check out this site: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ Last picture here http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_pulsa-prime_carb.asp indicates that the spring goes on the carb side of the diaphragm. J

The bowl is removed by disconnecting the leads to the solenoid, and then unscrewing the solenoid from the bottom of the bowl. The bowl is retained by the solenoid. See here: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_walbro_lmt_carb.asp J

4 cycle engines can benefit from muffler mods, but likely the result won't be as dramatic as with a 2 cycle. This is because intake (actually transfer on 2 cycle) and exhaust are separate functions on a 4 cycle, but intimately related on the 2 cycle..... 4 cycle exhausts tend to look very...

Glow fuel line is silicone, and isn't even close to tygon. Great if you're making an alky'burner, though. J

I'm using the same black stihl line.... Much more supple than tygon too... J

I've found tygon a poor choice whereever it gets much heat... Softens right up.... I use black fuel tubing for pulse lines... J

:cheers: :)

Checked my 310 last night. Carb removes simply by undoing 2 flathead screws and pulling the carb out, unhooking the throttle cable. Could scarcely be simpler.... J