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Yep, I've got a baggie of Carlton and a baggie of Stihl.

I think my ignition module on the 066 has bit the dust. Bailey's doesn't carry an aftermarket, I guess it's pay the big price or find a used one. I've got to test it out, but it died yesterday and won't start. Didn't have a Torx with to pull the cover to test spark.

I've got the Labonville full wraps, love 'em. I got them pants length so they seal around my boots and won't work up above them if I'm climbing around. Had them for a couple of years and wouldn't get them any shorter, especially when out in snow. Also make great kneepads for milling when I...

Just use regular chain. You shouldn't have any issues, it's called "noodling", look it up with the search function. Some guys really get off on it here. I noodled a couple of big boxelder bits last month. I didn't have any issues, but I had twice the saw you do. Your saw will do it, don't...

I've got 3/8" on my ported 350 and it pulls it well.

2hp should be fine, but I'd keep it to 1/8" with a wide bit at slow speed. It isn't going to be fast, but it will get done.

Boxelder is a strange beast. Took down a 24"+ leaner yesterday. Turns out the middle was completely rotted out. Some of it may have made some lumber, but all in all was a poor tree for it. They normally die off around here before they get that big. Much of it will end up in the burn pile...

I've got one just that big but 25 feet to the first branch, and another one that's 26" DBH, also about 25 feet to the first branch, and an 18" about the same. Nice work, getting me excited. Have to start begging at construction sites to get some more stickers and get things put together...

Because that's what they are set up for. I run 3/8 on everything because that's what I'm set up for, even when I had my 3120.

Depends, but the first one to come out anymore is the ported 350, but if the job is too big for that, then the 066 and be done with it quickly. Otherwise, when I'm feeling retro, it's the SuperXL. Used to always be the SuperXL, but that 350 is just too dang much fun.

End seal them, keep them out of the sun, and wait until fall.

Definitely. Muffler mod, remove the carb stops, and you essentially have a 262. The only other real difference between the 261 and 262 is a three shoe clutch, but that's not a dealbreaker in my opinion. If it's in any shape, go for it, you will have a great saw in the end.

Yeah, Cornholio brand is the best, but it's hard to find. Container doesn't always seal right, so often you need to keep some TP around for the bunghole.

Yeah, it kind of sucks. What does show up is near retail, and parts saws of any brand name are hard to come by. I've even told a couple of dealers that I'm not interested in "free" stuff, I'm willing to pay money for good non-runners, and it didn't do much good. Had one guy who wanted $150...

You can create "path" using the same guide but moving it as the saw moves forward. In other words, you can use a 10 foot guide board, run the saw 9 feet down it, than have it set up to move the guide another few feet down the log. In the Chainsaw Lumbermaking book, he uses lag screws and a...

Sorry to hear it. I'm going to miss mine when he's gone. Going to try to spend a little extra time with him this summer. Not that he's at any risk of anything, it's just been a long time since I've been able to.

A little muffler work and certainly. I've got a mildly ported Husky 350 that has become my workhorse. Wicked little thing.

I've milled quite a bit at well above that. Often upper 90s or 100. Not pleasant, but it won't hurt the saw. Gotta mill when the logs are available.

Okay, missed the bus on this one. All I could say was it was not a 268/272, and was probably a 100 series saw or earlier. I've never been in a 266, so you are over my head here.

Do you have any links binding up? I've had this happen before. Work the chain in your hands when it's off the saw to see if any links are tight.