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When you put the chain to the wood, does it want to "skate" sideways unless you use more pressure than you normally would in order to make it start cutting? If so, you are dealing with some species which is a LOT harder than box elder. Bone dry locust can be like cutting glass! I haven't cut...

That looks like quaking aspen (usually called poplar in Michigan) or cottonwood. If that is limb wood, it's probably cottonwood, & it has a sour smell when first cut. If those rounds are from the trunk, then it will be poplar. Both are similar. Poplar burns quickly & hot. It is rated pretty low...

Don't think it's that either. The leaf form is very similar, but I think the Chinqapin Oak has rounded ends on the lobes. American Chestnut maybe?

Nope. That leaf is very far removed from being mulberry.

Yep, he did. I've watched the video & resorted to my tree book this AM. The leaf form definitely suggests Hackberry. In Michigan it only grows in the southern 1/2 of the lower peninsula. I believe the OP indicated that he was in southern Wisconsin, so his tree is probably one of the most...

Without going to my tree book, I agree with Lone Wolf that it is most likely Hackberry. The serrated leaves with uneven lobes at their base suggests an elm like tree to which the Hackberry is related.

The bark doesn't "peel off" of yellow birch like it does off of white birch, & the wood somewhat resembles maple. A pic of the leaves should help answer your question. Just noticed the leaves, & I still don't know. Hackberry is related to elm whose leaves are uneven at the base. Maybe a hybrid...

Yeah, I get it. At one time I had a 1973 Olds Toronado with a 455 powerplant which had some early version a PCvalve & some recycling technology. This was known to rob the engine of some power. I knew a guy who put this stuff on by day & took it off by night! I had him "unrecycle" my Toro, & it...

I'm pretty sure the engineers you mention have some restrictions on what they are paid to design. It would be very interesting to know if any of them run saws of their own design & whether or not any of them have been "tweaked" a bit to enhance performance.

This is really important if you are cutting small stuff (little limbs) with the top of the bar!! If you don't give it enough energy, the small twiggy stuff will get caught in between the teeth & will give you a nasty pull forward if using the underside of the bar, or a very dangerous kickback if...

I also have a 261 & 201 (rear handle), both of which are early models with adjustable carbs. Great saws. The 261 is easy to tune. The 201 is a bit tricky due to the #$!!&*#$%#$* rev limiter. Those things are the invention of a satan worshipper!!

There are some filtration improvements that, reportedly, make a huge difference for the 500I. My 462 is an early model with a MM & timing advance. It is not ported but runs as if it were!

FWIW, I have an early 462 that normally wears a 24in Tsumura. I have also used a 32in Tsumura with full skip to block a fallen white oak which was 53in dia. I was very happy with the performance. I'm a small person (125lbs soaking wet), so I do not regularly stall a saw of that capacity, but I...

Why not just replace the plug first? I remember my "very young" & recently ported 241 suddenly deciding to not start. I took a flier & replaced the plug, & bingo, problem solved. Also, it's a good idea to make sure you have a fair amount of fuel in the tank!! Ask me how I know!! LOL!!

Good grief! My blood ran cold when You got to the point where you were thrown off the pile from 5ft up & the saw was coming at you!!! Very glad you came out of it with barely a scratch & were able to tell this story. I'm sure you have smartened up a lot of people & maybe even saved a life or...

Basically, heat exhaustion is characterized by what many here have described such as feeling weak, dizziness, nausea, & dark urine. At this point in time your blood glucose & electrolyte levels are dangerously low. If you do not rest & rehydrate (many excellent recipes & recommendations have...

There is a lot of talk about the outstanding power to weight ratio in the 500I & the 462. I don't have a 500I, but I do have a 462 & a 241, & I think the 241 ranks very well with it's bigger brothers in this regard!

Stay that way! Short term may be tough sledding, but it will pay off in the long haul.

I think the Stihl 051 was 5.3cc as was the 920. I may be mistaken, & it could well be that the 056 was of the same displacement. I was milling one day with a friend who had a Stihl which I thought was an 051. The two saws were about equal. The dealer who sold me the 920 knew I could tune a carb...

I bought an early one in the 1980s. I did a lot of milling with it with a 34in. Total Super bar. For other use I also ran a 24in. bar. They are very strong, but, as others have noted, filtration was not great. I have milled some very hard stuff such as Honey Locust, White Oak, & Sugar Maple...