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I'm splitting a lot of yellow birch right now. I would NEVER consider using a maul of even a Fiskars to tackle the task. Hydro FTW!

This concept isn't one I made up, in fact I'm almost certain I heard it here first. For wood to truly dry, you need three things: time, sun & wind. You can usually get away with two of the three - but short of a kiln, trying to burn wood without these elements is going to be incredibly...

Perfect. Then you should have no trouble getting within bow range!

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Split in big pieces I can get 12 hours out of that stuff in my OWB. For free? Dropped off? I'd stack it & burn it.

So...I take it you're not obsessed?:p

Partially correct timbrjack. The space allows me to drive down beside the rows and then turn my rig in between them to load/unload.

Allow me to respond photographically... And I've never been so proud as the day someone pointed out that you can see my stacks on the arial view on Google Earth! Ha!:chainsaw: Yep. I get it.

You guys are absolutely killing me with these prices and wood quality. I recently paid $150 a cord for mostly red maple and cherry logs. And that was after waiting 6 months to get someone to even agree to bring me logs. Most of the time either the supplier down right ignored my call or told...

Meh...She's a Maine 6. :laugh:

Gonna hit the 99 club tonight. NOAA's calling for -25 and we have the thermostat set for 74. I guess I could cheat and move it up to 75 - but it's been constant at 74 since I started the OWB in September.

I was in your shoes about 5 years ago when we were considering installing our OWB. I kept coming up with similar information - sure, you can go with the budget pipe, but those that have gone that route have almost **to a person** regretted doing so. If you want to do the project once and then...

Wait...did you just say your Ranger holds two Ricks Racked? I'm getting a headache!

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If the malfunction were LITTLE to ME I would have just fixed it and not asked my question. This IS the chainsaw forum, is it not? It's where I thought I could count on some helpful & useful info. Your post was neither of those.

OK - now we're getting somewhere. I can't get the metal arm to move once its disconnected from the blue plastic choke bar. Is the metal bar supposed to be angled back toward the carb just a bit?

I still can't get the choke to push back in - and when you push the stop button, the choke usually goes in with it - but I physically can't make either of those things happen. Because they're both plastic, I don't want to force them either. Here's a pic with the choke out as far as it goes and...

Just tried to start my 346 xp. I pulled the choke, pulled the starter cord till it sputtered & now I can't get the choke to push in to get the saw started. I'm sure it's something simple but I've been fiddling with it for 1/2 hour now & can't figure it out. Any ideas?

Nope. We won't be doing anything different. It must be a matter of what you're used to. In the summer when there are lows in the 40's (happens a lot in late August/early September) we don't even close our windows at night!