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I've got an old 540 with a damaged cylinder. It is neat impossible to source the cylinder for it but the 520 is pretty easy to find and affordable. Does anyone know if it will fit? Thanks

I put the h/l screws back at 1 1/2 out and tuned from there it isn't perfect but running much better. Looks like the L screw was so far out it was running rich wide open even with H all the way in.

I have a dcs540 that hasn't run well in a long time so I did a carb rebuild yesterday to little effect. It idles very poorly to not at all with the idle screw all the way in and the l screw pretty far out. It runs rich in the cut with the h screw all the way tight. This is contrary to my past...

I will cut out a replacement gasket from my sheet and see if that helps. With it being only after it warms up I'm skeptical. Thanks

I replaced the base gasket and the old one felt very greasy on the surface it also had no rtv. I thought I had it licked but it is doing the exact same thing. I made a pin point straw for my spray can with an old pen to try and be more precise with the carb cleaner. I found a leak between the...

When it's running I can spray the clutch seal and it has no effect. I have sprayed behind the flywheel but can't be sure any carb cleaner is getting back there.

I pumped to 7 psi. It took about 2 minutes to drop to zero. There were some leaks at the rubber pieces used to block intake and exhaust.

I got it started up and left the clutch and oil pump off. I sprayed here and there. The only place that killed it was on the intake block. This seems odd since the block has no visible cracks in it. All the gaskets are in place between carb and cylinder. Perhaps it's the base gasket on the carb...

I will put it back together and replace the fuel line again which has cracked up while sitting for a year. Not sure what they(Oregon) make this line out of but it is garbage. I will spray it down and see what happens. Maybe I will use WD40 since it sounds safer than carb cleaner.

Fuel line is new

I have done both with soapy water. No bubbles nor does a vacuum suck anything in at the crank seals.

A friend gave me a husky that runs fine when cold then gets leaner and leaner as it warms up. The only way it will idle is with the idle screw turned all the way in. I replaced the carb with the same results. I have pressure tested it and don't see any bubbles. Not sure how I could pressure test...

Clutch was rusted up from sitting to long. Bought a complete new clutch and fixed it up. Thanks

Turns out the shaft was not inserted all the way into the motor which gave it enough room for the drive shaft to move back and forth and disengage. Now that's fixed but the clutch does not disengage when idling.

I have an still fs250 that runs but the trimmer head does not spin. Sometimes when it is off spinning the trimmer turns the piston over other times it moves freely. Is this a bad clutch? Are there other things I should do to diagnose? Update. I have removed the engine and the clutch bell spins...

Good news the wire is good and it is getting fire

The **** you can learn on this forum amazing! That would have really simplified the new coil install to start with should have asked on here first. Unless of course the wire is bad. Thanks so much!

I bought an aftermarket coil thay said it was for the 200t and the plug wire is an inch and half too short. Can I chop the old wire and splice or is that a bad idea? I notice the insulation is very thick.

Not sure what you mean by recoil?

Well I pulled the cylinder and everything looks fine and the ring is intact. Not sure where the metal came from. A shop looked at it before me and said it wasn't worth fixing and advised buying a new saw. Perhaps they accidentally dropped something in there? I guess I will put it back together...