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I had that issue with one. Have it updated and check to see what carb it has. I'm guessing yours is an EL44 as mine was and it had the stumble/bog. The Update helped but didn't totally fix it. I put on an EL46 carb and issue resolved. You can do the swap yourself, get an update for your...

You may need to slightly move the trigger to fit the case half. Also make sure your on/off switch is pushed forward out of the way.

Check your needle arm setting.... raise it slightly. Put a piece of soft fuel line between the H & L screws to stop needle walk if your thinking that may be a problem. Place in the spring area or there a bouts.

No use in arguing with customers like that.... they don’t care, they know it all and their cheaper and will continue to run it until it quits they say it’s not their fault cuz they did everything right.... like the 2 year old gas you dump out of their tank...that’s full of water....

Make a new line first. It connects the case and the handle together for ground. It goes on the screw that holds the top cover on which goes into the screw hole indicated.

Thanks... haven’t been around much. Doing ok... fighting the affects of Chemo...

I run them on my ported saw and have had no issues. I like the filtration of them on my saws. I have built K & N filters to fit under the hood that work well too. They seem to flow a little better.

I got the kit from Nate @ Performance Outdoor Equipment and covered all my needs for the carb modding and experimenting do. I can change pop off to whatever pressure I need!!

I always assemble the pan to the cylinder out of the case then put it in and torque it down. Replacing bearings isn’t always necessary but you will need to clean and inspect and feel for any roughness, cracking of the ball retainer or any wobble or looseness feel. I always replace crank...

If the carb hasn’t been off since new or a couple years of hard cutting they have a tendency to collect fines in the carb filter and lean out. I’d check the carb out, clean it up and put a new kit in it. Your description sounds like how a saw acts with this issue. Seen it lots on these.

I think the older saws (or the ones I’ve messed with) all had a spark you could weld with. Most modern saws have a weak or very negligible spark. It may be due to electronic ignitions, different and changing advanced curves, spin over rate etc. I’m with you on the older saws for the most...

I’ve got saw to run at 85lb but was very hard to start and lacked power. I say a minimum of 100 lb to run and 120-130 to perform ok but not outstanding. 140-150 should be normal( depending on elevation, which does play a part). Sometimes the compression seems low but you can feel how it acts...

I would say #40 is a duck bill valve that belongs in the old system like you have. The new system is 4, 5 & 31 Try pressurizing your fuel line instead of vacuume. Pull the line up pull the filter and pressurize to 7-10 lb and watch for a drop. Sometimes I leave fuel in the tank to spot...

I had an 026 kit that I had to do some clean up on to be able to use it. Playing was good tho. When all done it ran very well. Ordered an 046/460 Stihl kit and that kit is nice with no issues. That’s been my experiences with the Warhawk P/C’s.

Sounds like a hard diaphragm. They slowly die because the can’t move enough fuel when hard. Just put a kit in it and you should be good. Sounds like you stored it properly but doesn’t hurt to check line and filter also. You carb sounds like it’s pretty clean inside as it starts and idles but...

The ones I’ve done worked fine. Issues were with carb and not electronics. Electronics on old carb and coil are already paired so swapping electronics to a new carb seemed like a solution to initially avoid a Dealer visit...... if it works (which they all have so far) a step can be illuminated.

If you have the latest updates a way around reprogramming is to just trade the old electronics to the new carb.....3 screws and gasket. I've done this several times with good success. You'll have a fresh unprogrammed module for lter if needed.

I’d say your needle is sticking and is being held open by debris in the carb. Take a look see like Harley says, a cleaning and kit will probably fix it.

Check the fuel line at the filter to see if the inner line has pulled out of the outer line.... happens all the time with these. You’ll see a clear hose still hooked to the filter but it has shrunk and collapsed and won’t allow fuel through. I always replace with a slightly larger line and of...

If there’s just a slight scratch and not through any plating and port edges are ok I’d use it. The damage on the cylinder top is insequential and not CSU’s any issues. Clean it up, get a new piston and double check fit by dropping it in cylinder to make sure there’s no high spots or rubbing that...