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I was told to look at the edges of the leaves. If the inner edges of the 2 outer leaves are smooth and the the outer edges along with both edges of the center leaf are rough then it's poison. So far this rule has worked for me.

Well done. I have a red one from '84 that I paid too much for if you ignore how much I learned while getting it running and how awesome it sounds.

I opened it up and the piston looked ok aside from some buildup on the head of it. I didn't see any scoring in the cylinder, but the dull patch around the exhaust worries me as that's where I could see fuel escaping. <a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/user/foxfire3/media/photo.jpg.html"...

Smart...

No I'm planning on keeping it for a while at least and of all the saws I have it's probably the only one I'd be comfortable pulling apart. I looks like a new gasket and rings will cost me around $35 which I'm fine with if there is a decent chance that it'll get the saw going again.

I was given this saw a while back got it running last weekend so I decided to clean it up a bit this weekend while I'm waiting for the new drive spur to get here. Anyway so I cleaned all the gas and oil off the exterior then I pulled the carb to clean it a bit. I just removed the top and bottom...

One quick tip I have is, to not get in to mastering the sharpening process until you have a few junk/older chains to practice on. Over this past winter I bought an Oregon file guide, a Husq roller guide, a Granberg, and just recently a Timberline which is why I had to get a new chain...

They are probably using an electric grinder/sharpener which could account for their and your grinds not matching 100%.

Neat idea and bonus points for actually doing it, but the location of the seat seems a little risky. Not sure I'd be comfortable letting my grapes hang...

I was given this saw a few months back and well I finally took the time to get it running yesterday. So now I need a new spur or sprocket/rim. I wasn't able to find any numbers on the spur that's on the saw, nor have I been able to find any online. I've read a few threads with the same question...

I got to play with it some today. I sharpened 2 far from new chains and it was quite tedious. However, the chips from my test cuts were all the proof I needed. As a test I touched up one the chains which was a much quicker process. As of now my day 1 review would be, when compared to a...

But of course...I kid you not, I have been having dreams of perfectly sharpened chains the last few nights. I'm your average firewood guy who like well built tools and spends way too much time and money worrying if his chains are sharp enough. I've watched the videos and read all I can on it and...

Sounds good, I'm not too keen on using chemicals, but I'm not dumb either...

Do the chemicals kill the roots? I've always heard that you need the pull the roots to truly get rid of it. Wet the soil around the plant to loosen the soil. Put a trash bag over/around the plant and pull gently as to not leave any roots behind. Once the plant free just twist and knot the bag...

Most of the wood I cut is dirty and on the ground so it seems like a safe bet for me.

Sort of funny, I bought my first saw (husq 288xp with a 32" bar) years go with the hopes of buying an Alaskan Mill shortly there after...someday maybe.

of those Timberline sharpener doohickey things. Which should be pretty cool. I'm all but out of wood to split, and everything is covered in poison ivy already. I'm bored so I figured I may as well buy something. I haven't read all 33 pages of the thread on this thing, but so far I haven't read...

I couldn't even finish reading your post. I'll have to come back and finish reading it later. Been there done that and I'll have to do it a few more times unfortunately before I'm done. Sorry for your loss and I glad she's not in pain anymore...it's not easy doing what you gotta do.

Just run some black stove pipe from the top of the chimney down and in to the tent. But be sure to add 2' to get above the ridge pole.

Yup