026 Rebuild...Probably Been Done

[PepperTheDoggo]

Ok...This is a thread that I hope will go on for a bit because I have a good many questions. I've been lurking and learning a LOT on here, but there are still some "What would you do?" style questions. I have an 026 (not a pro model/no decomp on top) that is in need of serious help. I've gotten confident enough to be a little dangerous on the tinkering side. I had allowed the saw to sit for a long time (approximately two years) until recently when I decided to go at it with renewed effort and enthusiasm (thanks in large part to this site and all the good things I've been reading about the old 026). I sat it down two years ago because it would start and idle fine, but would then shut down as soon as I tried to give it gas. That turned out to be two issues.

The biggest of the two was that the original fuel line looked like what I imagine a collapsed artery to look like down in the gas tank...thus, it could pull enough fuel to idle, but it would suck the fuel line shut when I tried to rev it up. After replacing the fuel line and filter (had to trim the non-OEM fuel line to fit under the air filter without crimping) I decided to check the carburetor with a ~$20 tachometer I'd bought to do the job because it was still slowing down when I would give it gas. Well, the idle was at around 2,000 and the high side read 9,300. This was the first time in my life adjusting a carburetor, but I ended up adjusting the idle to between 2,500-2,800 like I had read to do, then I followed the youtube instructions from Steve's Small Engine Saloon video for adjusting the low, then I adjusted the high to 12,900 outside of wood. The saw is a new animal. First question...are those adjustments correct? Now for the mountain of questions. I have the saw running well enough for now to do some of the bucking I need it to do (not a whole lot left...I've been working with a little 37cc Ryobi with a 16" thin bar and chain combo...neat/nice little saw) to help clear some debris. When I'm done with that work, I really want to baby the saw through winter as a project/rebuild saw.

I would like to restore it to like-new running condition. I do not have the tools needed to check compression and I do not have the tools needed to pressure/vac test it. What would I need to replace to obviate buying these tools to just make 100% sure of proper compression and proper sealing? I'm willing to drop a decent amount in this project. From what I understand, it's best to keep the OEM/original cylinder if it's in good shape, but aside from that, what kits can be recommended for replacing the piston and rings, the carb, fuel lines, electronics, case bearings/seals/gasketry, etc. etc., the whole shibang? I would like to know the costs from low-end to high-end/OEM and an in-between cost.

Edited for Mad Scientist's eyes.

 

[Blueduce]

PTD, one year ago I embarked on the same journey. I have a husky 142, it served me well to feed my fire pit but I kept my eyes open for a 50cc saw. I found a 026 by chance at the flea market, it looked pretty good but the guy said “ I will run but has very low compression cuz it was raw gassed when he loaned it out” he wanted $100.00 fo it, I offered 80 and he said ok.. he also said he put a new bar and chain on it “ but it still no cut so good”.... yea, I live in Ca.....notice the chain is on backwards....
I Pulled the jug, was able to clean the walls of aluminum, ordered a meteor piston/caber 44mm rings was beginning to re assemble and noticed the bearing cage on the clutch side was busted ... CRAP now I have to split this thing. I ordered the proprietary bearings and seals, took my time, read a lot, and took that saw down to its basic parts (hell, you only need one T27 long screw driver, and a little mechanical skill).
A few words of advice, your camera phone and baggies are your best friends. Also CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN EVERYTHING, pull the shrouds and side covers and take it to the car wash before you pull the jug.
But above all...get the cases out of the dishwasher BEFORE your wife gets home, trust me on this...
I now have a great little saw that out runs my husky like I couldn’t have imagined... good luck

 

[Huskitoter]

Good lookin` saw above. Like following this kind of thread. And by a fellow georgian, to boot.

Many auto parts chain stores lend out compression gauges. That, along with removing the muffler to inspect the p/cyl, will let you assess its present condition.

A very recent 026 thread shows pics and how to determine which cyl you have. Not a still guy but guessing the max rpm could be different for each.

Good luck.

edit..... thread to identify cyl

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/what-size-026-piston-is-this-no-marking.334302/

 

[Mad Professor]

Could you break that up into a few paragraphs so it would be easier on the eyes?

Who was your English teacher?

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Blueduce, thank you for the encouragement! Huskitoter, I've removed the muffler to check out the p/c, and I've removed the carb to oogle at it from that side. It looks shiny and slightly wet...from what I've read/seen of good and bad pistons, this one seems pretty nice. I did the drop test or whatever it's called for compression testing where you hold the pull cord handle and lift to see how fast the saw's weight pulls it down, and from what I understand of how to decipher that method the compression doesn't seem bad. But I am still wanting to get in there and replace things for peace of mind that when it's done totally, it shouldn't need doing for another 25+ years as long as proper care is taken of the saw. The saw itself has had a very hard life to look at it. No chainbrake aside from snapped pieces of plastic on either side where it was attached...gigantic Stihl bow guide with a semi-chisel full-composition chain. It also has the wrong air-filter cover from some other similar model and the black plastic piece that covers the throttle-release and trigger assembly is cracked and needs replacing... The saw itself is hideous, but I know it has a heart of gold.

 

[Blueduce]

PTD, are you saying that saw has a bow guide bar, no chain brake, and a full comp chain?
If so, you’ve got yourself a man eating wildcat in your hands! Please restore the safety features and a standard bar before you use that saw. eBay has everything you need.
A few pics would be nice as well...

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Blueduce, that's exactly what I'm saying. I used it pretty extensively when I first bought it (before the fuel line collapsed and it sat for two years). I come from hillbilly/country stock, but I don't agree with the hillbillification of this saw. I would love to get it looking and running like yours. Also, the bow guide is huge for the saw...I mean it's a LOT of chain. I don't think that a 50cc powerhead was meant to pull it. When I have used it, it is only for bucking out in the open (and logs at 15" or so diameter). Work touches the teeth on the guide (I guess they could be called dawgs), then the chain. Annnd the old bow guide is a Stihl/hard to find. The only ones I've seen being let go are running ~$300 in iffy condition! So...I wouldn't mind getting ANOTHER project saw (would a 044 be more appropriate for that bow guide?) and putting a 18"-20" bar on the to-be-restored 026. How do I post pics?

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

Again, guys...I know that picture is liable to cause a shitfit. That's why this post is about rebuilding, rebarring, and refurbing this saw... Also, the rounds in the background were not cut by this saw. I haven't used this saw for doing anything aside from testing to see if it ran after replacing the fuel line a week ago.

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

It is amazingly easy to post pictures on this forum!

 

[Blueduce]

Take a pic on your iPhone, let it load to your pic files, open this post section and hit upload a file, pick full or thumbnail then the DONE button, hell the above pic was my first one to...
I didn’t mean to sound critical of your saw, and I know those old bow bars command a premium price, for whatever reason but, to me, a dangerous configuration, especially w/out the chain break.
I look forward to reading about, and seeing how you transform that old mill-yard saw back to it’s original condition.
As is, it wouldn’t be even allowed on a work site.

 

[PepperTheDoggo]

I didn't interpret any criticism in your comment, my friend. We lurkers must stick together. I will say, though, that I've met a lot of people who have the same opinion of bow guides that you do (i.e., generally just plain dangerous) but have never used them. Have you ever used one? I actually catch myself becoming more complacent when using a bow guide than I do with a bar. Bows are so much more comfortable for bucking logs into rounds and that ain't no joke. If you ever get the chance to give one a shot, I highly recommend it. I don't recommend them for felling, limbing, or pretty much anything else that a bar is more suited for...but when it comes to bucking there isn't much that beats a bow. Did my pictures load up ok? Also, do you think a Stihl 044 would be good for that bow? What is your opinion on 40:1 vs. 50:1? And this 026 has the fully adjustable carb. What do you set your rpms at?

 

[Blueduce]

PTD, my 026 has the 3 screw carb as well. Did a muffler mod after rebuild, love that saw...
About the pre-mix, I run a fat 50:1 like the book says, IMHO I’m not arrogant enough or dumb enough to think I know better than a bunch of German engineers. There’s no conspiracy here, they lost the war, their over it...
About the RPMs, I have no clue, if I think it’s going too fast I push down a little harder.

 

[farmer steve]

I didn't interpret any criticism in your comment, my friend. We lurkers must stick together. I will say, though, that I've met a lot of people who have the same opinion of bow guides that you do (i.e., generally just plain dangerous) but have never used them. Have you ever used one? I actually catch myself becoming more complacent when using a bow guide than I do with a bar. Bows are so much more comfortable for bucking logs into rounds and that ain't no joke. If you ever get the chance to give one a shot, I highly recommend it. I don't recommend them for felling, limbing, or pretty much anything else that a bar is more suited for...but when it comes to bucking there isn't much that beats a bow. Did my pictures load up ok? Also, do you think a Stihl 044 would be good for that bow? What is your opinion on 40:1 vs. 50:1? And this 026 has the fully adjustable carb. What do you set your rpms at?

repair manual says 2,500 for idle and 14,000 max w/bar and chain.

 

[Mad Professor]

Get a 16" , 3003 mount , 0.063 , 0.325 bar. Stihl 26 RS chain 67 dl , and check you drive sprocket is 0.325.

Find a dead 024/026 carcass for chain brake and other parts. Trading post here might find those.

 

[Mad Professor]

PTD, one year ago I embarked on the same journey. I have a husky 142, it served me well to feed my fire pit but I kept my eyes open for a 50cc saw. I found a 026 by chance at the flea market, it looked pretty good but the guy said “ I will run but has very low compression cuz it was raw gassed when he loaned it out” he wanted $100.00 fo it, I offered 80 and he said ok.. he also said he put a new bar and chain on it “ but it still no cut so good”.... yea, I live in Ca.....notice the chain is on backwards....
I Pulled the jug, was able to clean the walls of aluminum, ordered a meteor piston/caber 44mm rings was beginning to re assemble and noticed the bearing cage on the clutch side was busted ... CRAP now I have to split this thing. I ordered the proprietary bearings and seals, took my time, read a lot, and took that saw down to its basic parts (hell, you only need one T27 long screw driver, and a little mechanical skill).
A few words of advice, your camera phone and baggies are your best friends. Also CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN EVERYTHING, pull the shrouds and side covers and take it to the car wash before you pull the jug.
But above all...get the cases out of the dishwasher BEFORE your wife gets home, trust me on this...
I now have a great little saw that out runs my husky like I couldn’t have imagined... good luck
View attachment 751815

you chain is on backwards and that"s too much bar for a 026

get a 16" bar

 

[Deleted member 117362]

you chain is on backwards and that"s too much bar for a 026

get a 16" bar

I like it when people do that and post a picture. He knew it was. Let's me know, I am not the only person that has done the same.

 

[dumbarky]

I've run 026 and 260 pro's and non pro's for years, all with 18" bars. Same as i run on my 036 and 362's. I change every saw i own over to run the .050 gauge 3/8 pitch chains. Now being that said the 026's actually probably perform a little better with .325, but where i am and what i do, its more important to be versatile and functional than anything else. This allows me to stay on the job almost 99% of the time and not have to carry around a multitude of bars, chains, files, repair straps, and the like. Oh and given the choice, and i will catch flac over this, "I prefer a hard nose bar to anything else". But id rather lose a little overall performance and gain more time in the field. Rip away!!!

 

[Blueduce]

you chain is on backwards and that"s too much bar for a 026

That pic was taken 5 minutes after I purchased the saw. I noticed it as I was checking it out, I didn’t want to offend the old boy. I knew I had a jewel in the rough, saw+parts $130 Runs like new...

As to the bar, (20”) I cut cedar rounds for my pit...works great for me..

 

[Huskitoter]

I've run 026 and 260 pro's and non pro's for years, all with 18" bars. Same as i run on my 036 and 362's. I change every saw i own over to run the .050 gauge 3/8 pitch chains. Now being that said the 026's actually probably perform a little better with .325, but where i am and what i do, its more important to be versatile and functional than anything else. This allows me to stay on the job almost 99% of the time and not have to carry around a multitude of bars, chains, files, repair straps, and the like. Oh and given the choice, and i will catch flac over this, "I prefer a hard nose bar to anything else". But id rather lose a little overall performance and gain more time in the field. Rip away!!!

Sounds business smart to me. I only cut a little firewood and use 325 on a bigger saw for the same reason.

If valueing the bow on past ebay sales, you can trust the past selling prices if there are a hundred sales per week of an item. Not so much for items that are rarely purchased.