PepperTheDoggo
ArboristSite Lurker
I was thinking of dropping the 026 down from that big bow (how do you take measurements of a bow guide to convey size? what parts of the guide are measured or is a chain tooth count more important?) to a 18" bar. Mad Scientist I got your:
"Get a 16" , 3003 mount , 0.063 , 0.325 bar. Stihl 26 RS chain 67 dl , and check you drive sprocket is 0.325. Find a dead 024/026 carcass for chain brake and other parts. Trading post here might find those." Why do you persistently recommend the 16" bars on 026s? I am genuinely curious and not trying to be a smart ass. I have run chainsaws off and on through the years for around a decade, but we're talking minimal stuff here. I live right on the Georgia fall line...I work in pest control not in tree work, and Georgians in my locale (myself included) very rarely need much firewood. Our winters are a joke. I generally put my hands on chainsaws once or twice per year for clean up purposes (we get powerful storms sometimes) and the occasional firewood-getting forays. I enjoy using my axes and mauls for splitting...even though our red and white oak varieties can be gnarly. For some reason, the chainsaw bug just decided to bite me this year and I decided, "I want to learn more about these things..." So here I am. Thus...why do you recommend the 16" for the 026? Are ~50cc class saws best with this guide length? Also, can you break the other numbers down? What's a 3003 mount? What is the 0.063 number, and the 0.325? Is the "S" in RS semi-chisel? Is the "R" round-ground? I gather that 67 dl is the number of drive links. Anyway...I learn quickly, but I don't by any means know as much as I would like to. Thanks for your patience and recommendations. I may well check out the trading post for those saw carcasses. =-)
Farmer Steve, thanks for answering my RPM question! So it sounds like me being between 2,500 and 2,800 idle may well need to come on down a bit. I put the high at 12,900 outside of wood. From what I've been reading, it sounds like I may actually need to push that to around 13,500 outside of wood to fall towards 12,000-12,500 in the cut? Is that correct? Is the L adjustment not usually measured with a tachometer like people do with the LA and H? If so, what sort of RPM should I be tuning for with the L?
Blueduce, what's the drawback of running a 40:1 vs a 50:1 in a machine labeled for 50:1? Does it cause excess mess in the engine/on components? I know it causes more smoke...does that indicate an inefficient burn that also causes power loss? I've also read where believers in sticking with 40:1 tend to caution that if you do that, the carb needs to be tuned to adjust for the difference. What would that look like RPM-wise?
Dumbarky, why do you like the hard-nosed bars? In Arkansas, you are probably working in a lot of hardwoods, which is pretty much the only thing I mess with (unless a pine falls in an unfavorable location). Is there an advantage to the hardnoses in hardwoods?
Mad Scientist, I read your "you chain is on backwards and that"s too much bar for a 026 get a 16" bar" in my head as an aggravated Clint Eastwood-esque voice that made me laugh...I halfway expected some sort of nippy follow-up like, "And pull your pants up, for God's sake! You look like a clown..."
Thanks for the active posting, guys. I will keep y'all updated on how this all turns out for this saw. I appreciate y'alls' input(s?).
"Get a 16" , 3003 mount , 0.063 , 0.325 bar. Stihl 26 RS chain 67 dl , and check you drive sprocket is 0.325. Find a dead 024/026 carcass for chain brake and other parts. Trading post here might find those." Why do you persistently recommend the 16" bars on 026s? I am genuinely curious and not trying to be a smart ass. I have run chainsaws off and on through the years for around a decade, but we're talking minimal stuff here. I live right on the Georgia fall line...I work in pest control not in tree work, and Georgians in my locale (myself included) very rarely need much firewood. Our winters are a joke. I generally put my hands on chainsaws once or twice per year for clean up purposes (we get powerful storms sometimes) and the occasional firewood-getting forays. I enjoy using my axes and mauls for splitting...even though our red and white oak varieties can be gnarly. For some reason, the chainsaw bug just decided to bite me this year and I decided, "I want to learn more about these things..." So here I am. Thus...why do you recommend the 16" for the 026? Are ~50cc class saws best with this guide length? Also, can you break the other numbers down? What's a 3003 mount? What is the 0.063 number, and the 0.325? Is the "S" in RS semi-chisel? Is the "R" round-ground? I gather that 67 dl is the number of drive links. Anyway...I learn quickly, but I don't by any means know as much as I would like to. Thanks for your patience and recommendations. I may well check out the trading post for those saw carcasses. =-)
Farmer Steve, thanks for answering my RPM question! So it sounds like me being between 2,500 and 2,800 idle may well need to come on down a bit. I put the high at 12,900 outside of wood. From what I've been reading, it sounds like I may actually need to push that to around 13,500 outside of wood to fall towards 12,000-12,500 in the cut? Is that correct? Is the L adjustment not usually measured with a tachometer like people do with the LA and H? If so, what sort of RPM should I be tuning for with the L?
Blueduce, what's the drawback of running a 40:1 vs a 50:1 in a machine labeled for 50:1? Does it cause excess mess in the engine/on components? I know it causes more smoke...does that indicate an inefficient burn that also causes power loss? I've also read where believers in sticking with 40:1 tend to caution that if you do that, the carb needs to be tuned to adjust for the difference. What would that look like RPM-wise?
Dumbarky, why do you like the hard-nosed bars? In Arkansas, you are probably working in a lot of hardwoods, which is pretty much the only thing I mess with (unless a pine falls in an unfavorable location). Is there an advantage to the hardnoses in hardwoods?
Mad Scientist, I read your "you chain is on backwards and that"s too much bar for a 026 get a 16" bar" in my head as an aggravated Clint Eastwood-esque voice that made me laugh...I halfway expected some sort of nippy follow-up like, "And pull your pants up, for God's sake! You look like a clown..."
Thanks for the active posting, guys. I will keep y'all updated on how this all turns out for this saw. I appreciate y'alls' input(s?).
