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029 super carburetor setting

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Jetblack3, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Jetblack3

    Jetblack3 ArboristSite Lurker

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    Working on a 029 super for a buddy. After doing some carb setting research it sounded pretty standard for Stihl saws. Seat the H and L setting and back out 1 full turn should get you close then optimize from there and set LA by plug color. His saw after warmed up doesn't want to idle, bogs and dies intermittently. Have to feather gas, sometimes can catch up to it other times cant. Tried adjusting carb last night and the H and L don't even have a full turn of adjustment. Completely seated to full out is only about 3/4 turn. Did a little fiddling with it and was able to get it to idle up by making small adjust on L and LA but need to go out and cut a little to see if issue goes away. Is there a standard setting to start with regarding this saw ?
     
  2. kenton.a.frank

    kenton.a.frank ArboristSite Operative

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    Are the epa restriction covers removed? If not I’d remove them with a wood screw and pliers. After removed retry to tune. If you have done any modifications to the muffler it won’t end up landing in exactly 1 and 1


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  3. Jetblack3

    Jetblack3 ArboristSite Lurker

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    I have removed the rubber cover as this is the only sure way to see your adjustment. Problem is there isn't even a full turn of adjustment from seated to full open so 1 full turn out is not even possible without damage.
     
  4. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    There are limit caps built into the adjustment screws as mandated by the EPA. You have to defeat those to gain full adjustment range on the screws. And turn your idle (LA) screw in a turn.
     
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  5. Trent Curtis

    Trent Curtis ArboristSite Guru

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    If you can’t get that saw to idle I surely wouldn’t run it in the wood without fixing the issue- or performing a vac test to be sure you don’t have an airleak.

    An an air leak usually causes uneven idling, or can cause the saw to quickly scream at the top end when the saw is given some air/throttle.

    First confirm a good bench tune.... ie idles smoothly, and four strokes smoothly on top end. THEN put that sucker in the wood and tune.

    Otherwise run the risk of finding the issue.... after the fact :rare2:
     
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  6. Jetblack3

    Jetblack3 ArboristSite Lurker

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    Sounds like a solid recipe to break the carb and burn up the saw, thanks... ? After more research it turns out their are 2 style carburetors on stihl saws / Type A and Type B. I obviously have the B carb with less travel in adjustment screws. 1/4 turn out from seated is what was recommended. Not far from where I was currently at. A little tweak to the L and the LA and she is idling smooth and fine. Just need to put it under load and work from there...time will tell.
     
  7. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    Glad you got it running:cheers:
    I assure you that no one here wants you to burn up your saw, even if it is the wrong color:dancing:.
     
  8. kenton.a.frank

    kenton.a.frank ArboristSite Operative

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    No one wants you to burn it up. However if you know how to tune it the limiters do nothing but limit the adjustability. If you keep it stock you are probably fine. If you ever mod the muffler slightly (most guys do the 290/310/390s are plugged up from factory) of if you ever decide to upgrade to a 390 top end you will need to take those limiters off to tune appropriately to avoid burning it up.

    You’re welcome at trying to help you.


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  9. HarleyT

    HarleyT Tree Freak

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    Maybe he should replace that cracked fuel line and rebuild the carb?
     

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