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031av won't do...anything

RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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You likely have a bad coil or bad cap. You can try an automotive cap or another small engine cap mounted externally to see if it makes any difference. Isn't the cap wire also the kill switch wire?

Also have you checked the HT lead from the coil? If you unscrew it from the coil tower it should read zero ohms to the center electrode of the plug. Also look fro cracks/damage to the wire. You may also see issues with your drill motor in a dark garage/room.
New high tension wire and insulation installed, old one was stiff as a board.

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Gaudaost

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Don’t replace random things without testing them. Test your coil, test your capacitor, test for grounding of either kill or HT lead. Check the HT is tight on the screw thread in the coil, check the spring in the boot is secure and tight making good connection. Your carb will be gummy too if you ran it with that fuel. Fuel filter will be blocked as well.

No saw will spark with slow rotation of the crank. You’ll need about 1200 rpm to get a good spark minimum.

As for electronic ignition modules, check if your flywheel has 2 or 4 magnets. They only work if there is 2. Either way you don’t need one you just need to find the issue.
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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Don’t replace random things without testing them. Test your coil, test your capacitor, test for grounding of either kill or HT lead. Check the HT is tight on the screw thread in the coil, check the spring in the boot is secure and tight making good connection. Your carb will be gummy too if you ran it with that fuel. Fuel filter will be blocked as well.

No saw will spark with slow rotation of the crank. You’ll need about 1200 rpm to get a good spark minimum.

As for electronic ignition modules, check if your flywheel has 2 or 4 magnets. They only work if there is 2. Either way you don’t need one you just need to find the issue.
New carb, has never seen fuel, ht is screwed in tight and the insulation grommet is new and tight it came with a new 2 pin plug end spring. Based upon my drill speed, it just starts to spark around 2400, and sparks consistently from about 3000 on up.

Prior to, it sparked easily with casual rope pulls with the plug removed.

Its a 2 magnet flywheel

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Gaudaost

Gaudaost

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New carb, has never seen fuel, ht is screwed in tight and the insulation grommet is new and tight it came with a new 2 pin plug end spring. Based upon my drill speed, it just starts to spark around 2400, and sparks consistently from about 3000 on up.

Prior to, it sparked easily with casual rope pulls with the plug removed.

Its a 2 magnet flywheel

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Test the cap with a multimeter. Set the multimeter to capacitance, take the wires off the top of the cap. Connect 1 probe to the top of the cap and one probe to the mounting plate. Should read around .20 uf or 200nf
 

KASH

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Sounds like a bad cap to me BUT I have had similar issues with various engines with points over the last 50 years .the biggest cause of poor low speed spark is dirty contacts even the oil from your skin will cause the points to burn.After I have honed the point surfaces I spray the contacts with brake cleaner and then when they are dry I pull a spot less clean business card threw the closed contacts.
Keep up your spirits once you have worked on one the rest are dead nuts simple.With these it is just checking one component at a time caps rarely fail most off the time it is just clean and adjust the points.
I have about 50 saws and will take a points ignition saw over electronic any time.
To the other poster I also have a 031 with the chain brake it is very handy for starting the saw as the chain does not turn until you engage the brake a really good idea for once.
Kash
 
SteveSr

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Test the cap with a multimeter. Set the multimeter to capacitance, take the wires off the top of the cap. Connect 1 probe to the top of the cap and one probe to the mounting plate. Should read around .20 uf or 200nf
The cap works in concert with the inductance of the primary side of the ignition coil to produce a resonant circuit (ring wave) that will boost the output voltage of the secondary. It will also protect the points from excessive metal transfer/burning. So if the cap is open or low value the spark quality will suffer.
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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I thought you said it had good strong spark,
did you let these guys change your mind?
It had damn good spark...you could flip the flywheel by hand and get an audible snap.

The group consensus was it must be out of time, even though it had previously run briefly. After i Verified the timing, i lost my good spark. Points have been carefully sanded, gapped, regapped, cleaned...and i can't get my good spark back. In the middle of all that i realized my fresh mix had some kind of contamination.

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RED-85-Z51

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Got the Nova2 chip on, wired it as negative ground, got my low rpm spark back. Now to try it...if it's not right ill need to advance the flywheel about 28* or 1" on the timing mark

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RED-85-Z51

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Got the Nova2 chip on, wired it as negative ground, got my low rpm spark back. Put it together, like.. all together, fuel system and all.

Got fuel, compression, spark, tried advancing the time 1" and no change. The plug gets wet but it's not flooding out the carb.

The recoil is hanging on by a thread...the housing is busted at the ears.

Doesn't even smoke out the exhaust...

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Gaudaost

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You can’t have fuel, spark, timing and compression, or your saw would run.

You have overlooked something. Back to basics.

How does the plug look, is it wet after this?

Don’t rely on fuel from the carb... take that out the equation.

Are you spraying fuel down the intake or relying on the fuel from the carb? Empty the tank of all fuel, remove the plug, Hold the throttle down WOT and pull over a bunch of times, you could also spray some compressed air down inside the top end and carefully through the transfers. Wire wheel the plug and clean it good. Gap it, put it back on, squirt a small amount of fuel down the intake. Don’t use any choke, hold trigger down for WOT and pull over hard.
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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I gave it a big flooding gulp of mix...wayyy too much, about 6 pulls later it ran, ran on its own, I was able to idle it right down, both needles responded. I shut it off, pulled it a few times, nothing, choked it,..next pull the recoil said deuces...done, no longer able to be held down flush.

It didn't seem to want to refire...but the recoil was starting to skip pretty badly at that point.

So...now I order a nice recoil and some pawls that arent so beat up.

But it ran...first time in easily 20 years. It was very responsive, i didnt give her the beans..but it hit 10k im sure and never broke up.

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RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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You can’t have fuel, spark, timing and compression, or your saw would run.

You have overlooked something. Back to basics.

How does the plug look, is it wet after this?

Don’t rely on fuel from the carb... take that out the equation.

Are you spraying fuel down the intake or relying on the fuel from the carb? Empty the tank of all fuel, remove the plug, Hold the throttle down WOT and pull over a bunch of times, you could also spray some compressed air down inside the top end and carefully through the transfers. Wire wheel the plug and clean it good. Gap it, put it back on, squirt a small amount of fuel down the intake. Don’t use any choke, hold trigger down for WOT and pull over hard.
It was wet prior to, yes. It was getting fuel for sure.

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Gaudaost

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It was wet prior to, yes. It was getting fuel for sure.

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Right, the plug shouldn’t be wet. That’s a sign of flooding. Follow the advice above. Use new pump gas mixed fresh, empty tank and clear of any fuel. Don’t fill the tank. Squire some fuel down the throat, a teaspoon. Hold the butterfly open and yank hard
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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Right, the plug shouldn’t be wet. That’s a sign of flooding. Follow the advice above. Use new pump gas mixed fresh, empty tank and clear of any fuel. Don’t fill the tank. Squire some fuel down the throat, a teaspoon. Hold the butterfly open and yank hard
That's what I did the other day.

But today, it runs after I intentionally flood it.

Thing is possessed..all I can figure.

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Gaudaost

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If it runs after you intentionally flood it maybe the excess fuel & oil are raising compression... maybe your compression reading is out. Mix up a real small amount of 16:1 haha. See if the oil helps.
 
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