034 AV rebuild

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Good project for ya.

To get it right-
OEM 1127 fuel line
OEM impulse line (Stihl dealer should have this)
OEM pto side bearing
OEM or high quality 6202 flywheel side bearing
OEM gasket kit (with seals)
OEM cylinder with oem or Meteor piston (potentially 48mm if so desired).

Carefully clean and inspect the cases. Make sure the bearing pockets are tight (you shouldn’t be able to put a bearing in by hand), check all AV mounts for tears, check coil for damage, examine wiring.
 
Got the remaining bearing off. Used a wedge on the zip gun and it came right off. I was careful. No damage. I’ve got an oil pump but will need the oil line to the brass fitting. How in the world does that go on? Doesn’t look like there is enough room to slide it over the barb. Never gotten this detailed in a saw before.

Never mind. I figured that out after looking at it
 
Back to a positive note. Here's my 034 AV that I rebuilt with an 036 top end about six years ago. I have put lots of hours on it, so this year I replaced the fuel and filters. It runs fine today:
View attachment 845572The bar is now a solid gray with all green letters rubbed off. Air filters are getting hard to find.
I love this. Hope I get mine back together. I think I’ve ordered everything I need. Hopefully it works out and is reliable.
 
Don't take the crank apart. If you're not happy with it find a good used one from someone here or on ebay. The equipment to properly align the halves for re-assembly is cost prohibitive.
Ah Tim you ruined all the fun. I wanted to see him try that. Been waiting 34 years for somebody to take the crank apart and re-assemble, with hand tools. LOL
 
Got the remaining bearing off. Used a wedge on the zip gun and it came right off. I was careful. No damage. I’ve got an oil pump but will need the oil line to the brass fitting. How in the world does that go on? Doesn’t look like there is enough room to slide it over the barb. Never gotten this detailed in a saw before.

Never mind. I figured that out after looking at it

Stihl sells a kit to replace the oil pump line. It has the brass insert and wire coil that goes inside line so it won't kink. The plastic line is very stiff and you need to heat it to slip it over the pump nipple. If you heat too much the line will collapse. There is enough line to do two saws or enough if you screw up on first try. You need to trim the line to proper length. Some people connect pump first, others insert the brass insert

I did a 036 a while back (2010?) and the thread had pictures. The pictures got lost with the site crash, I redid the thread/pictures

036 project
 
Eng208 the stress that crank is under is tremendous. When they do come apart, with proper presses, they sound like a rifle shot! Not for us amateurs. It seems amazing to me how the Chinese can build them so cheaply. When you replace yours try to take the bad one apart!
 
Eng208 the stress that crank is under is tremendous. When they do come apart, with proper presses, they sound like a rifle shot! Not for us amateurs. It seems amazing to me how the Chinese can build them so cheaply. When you replace yours try to take the bad one apart!

Years back I rebuilt single cylinder motocross bike cranks, that I could get rods and lower bearings for. I worked at a shop with the right tools.

You need a very good press and tools to position the crank and press the rod pin in and out. When you get it back together you need a machinist V-blocks, a dead level/flat surface for those blocks, and a magnetic base dial indicator to check crank runout/true the crank. I never had one I did come apart.
 
I won’t mess with the crank then. I flushed it and it seems smooth now. May have had grit in it from sitting in the garage for the last week.
 
I won’t mess with the crank then. I flushed it and it seems smooth now. May have had grit in it from sitting in the garage for the last week.

More likely it had bits of the shattered main bearing floating around inside that bearing- make sure it is well flushed out.
 
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