036 new carb issue

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Baker360

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Sorry if this is not the right place to post, not really mod but it’s for use with the fire department. I put a new OEM carb on a 036 pro and the low screw will not richen up and slow the saw down. It just increases the Rpms, yes I’m turning counter clockwise. I will vacuum/pressure test in the morning but is this a clear sign of a major air leak? The previous carb was not responding right for the past couple months but it didn’t respond like this. Idle screw is 3 screws in from contact and gets the chain to engage with an additional 1/4 turn. High screw is reactive and sounds good but when I get close to a good throttle response it has a long wine down. Major concern is I have never had a carb not fatten up and not stall out like this, could it be the factory carb has the float not adjusted right??
 
Not float in chainsaw carbs. They use a pump instead, which is powered by the impulse coming from the crankcase. Take the carb apart, clean it, kit it, gently push some air through it or better yet a ultra sonic cleaner. Could be gummed up.
 
Sorry if this is not the right place to post, not really mod but it’s for use with the fire department. I put a new OEM carb on a 036 pro and the low screw will not richen up and slow the saw down. It just increases the Rpms, yes I’m turning counter clockwise. I will vacuum/pressure test in the morning but is this a clear sign of a major air leak? The previous carb was not responding right for the past couple months but it didn’t respond like this. Idle screw is 3 screws in from contact and gets the chain to engage with an additional 1/4 turn. High screw is reactive and sounds good but when I get close to a good throttle response it has a long wine down. Major concern is I have never had a carb not fatten up and not stall out like this, could it be the factory carb has the float not adjusted right??
Sounds like a serious air leak.
 
Yotaismygame, brand new OEM carb.
Maintenance Supervisor:
I performed a pressure and vacuum test on the saw and it would only build about 3-4 psi, not 8, and would leak down to about 1 psi on the positive pressure. No vacuum could be achieved. I found the flywheel side crank seal to be passing large bubbles and yanked that out. I have new seals on order and will pop that in and retest. I have had many saws fail vacuum test before but I have never seen a saw race like this when trying to fatten up the L screw. Do you think it is a larger airline then a crankseal? Intake boot that is allowing air to keep the saw from getting too rich and falling on its face... Hopefully the new seal get the saw to pass the pressure test. It passed the test last year when I put a new meteor cylinder on when the carb leaned out and toasted it with some green sawyers..... pretty much everyone that uses them so I get to find these issues on fairly regular bases. I will let you know, I refuse to listen to a dealership that says its not worth fixing and to just buy a new one. 20 dollars will hopefully get this back up and running. Just glad to had a chance to run it before something major happened, and of course as soon as I started it I knew something was wrong and the other guys when asked said it had been running weird for a couple weeks.......:dumb2:
 
Not float in chainsaw carbs. They use a pump instead, which is powered by the impulse coming from the crankcase. Take the carb apart, clean it, kit it, gently push some air through it or better yet a ultra sonic cleaner. Could be gummed up.
Sorry didn't mean float, but the needle adjustment when you want to get the metal flap to sit level with the carb body.
 
Well think of it this way , if you feed fuel to air then you get combustible mix . With the crank sucking in an infinite amount of air whe you adjust the L jet out your basically feedind the leak which pulls more with the fuel being feed to it.
 
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