So one of my 044s needs seals. I went ahead and split the case too put bearings in it while I'm at it. But the bearing on the flywheel side is still on the crank. Any suggestions before I get up tomorrow morning and tackle it again? Thinking about leaving it in the freezer over night
044 crank bearing problem
- Thread starter Cody1983
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Do you have any kind of a bearing puller? Your best bet is heat and a bearing puller. If you use a two jaw or three jaw type, put the
flywheel nut on the end of the stub shaft of the crank to prevent damage.
flywheel nut on the end of the stub shaft of the crank to prevent damage.
that's what I was
yes I do..wasn't sure if freezing it or heating it would be better
brandonstc6
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You need bearing puller/ separator. I think harbor freight has them. I have a big MAC tools set and a harbor freight steering wheel puller to pull the puller up and this pulling the bearing off the crank
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brandonstc6
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Comes in handy if you work on a good bit of saws. My set has 6 or so in it and was new and $40 at an estate sale.
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I don't have that setup, but I will tomorrow im off work due too shoulder surgery im going to a gym that is next door to harber freightComes in handy if you work on a good bit of saws. My set has 6 or so in it and was new and $40 at an estate sale.
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drf255
BAD CAD
Heat.
Warm the bearing, not the crank, with a torch.
If it’s the PTO side, expect smoke as the retainer is plastic.
Bearing puller best, but a 2 jaw with work.
When I assemble, when the Fly side bearing soaks up the case heat, the crank will drop right in. Then if it’s cold enough, it goes outside while I do something else and setup gasket. Do the PTO side bearing and let it soak up the heat, and the case side will literally drop onto the crank and assemble/mate to Fly side.
It’s not heat or cold per se, it’s the temp differential. If they are both hot or both cold, the interference fit will stay the same.
Warm the bearing, not the crank, with a torch.
If it’s the PTO side, expect smoke as the retainer is plastic.
Bearing puller best, but a 2 jaw with work.
When I assemble, when the Fly side bearing soaks up the case heat, the crank will drop right in. Then if it’s cold enough, it goes outside while I do something else and setup gasket. Do the PTO side bearing and let it soak up the heat, and the case side will literally drop onto the crank and assemble/mate to Fly side.
It’s not heat or cold per se, it’s the temp differential. If they are both hot or both cold, the interference fit will stay the same.
Im wondering if where the bearing in question seats in if the cases are spun? Anyway look at that.
Heat and a pickle fork if done carefully should work.
In a pinch you can crack the bearing off. Carefully cut the outer race off and let the balls drop out. Score the inner race with a carbide burr or small cutting wheel. Support the crank stub on the work bench and set a cold chisel in the groove you just made, whack the chisel firmly. The race will usually slip off after a couple smacks. If done properly there will be no damage to the crank.
Done that , good trick.
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
Use the loaner tool program at the local auto parts store to borrow a bearing separator
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Comes in handy if you work on a good bit of saws. My set has 6 or so in it and was new and $40 at an estate sale.
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Slow down!
Hows does the seat for that bearing seem?
it was good..both sides pressed in really tight
