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044 STIHL MELTING WORM GEAR ON OILER

drf255

drf255

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Thanks Harley, I couldn’t figure out why I sometimes had an issue. Having parts that mix and match with the 1125 series from the 1128 series (but not always) has made it even more difficult at times.

I usually tighten the clutch and check that the worm gear tang moves freely without any effort using a pic without the drum installed. When the setup is wrong, the tang won’t move easily and you will see it moving with crank rotation.

I’m sure the rubbing between the 2 is creating the heat that is melting the gear.
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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If everything is installed in the correct order and position then the depth of bushing # 11 should be greater than the depth of the nylon drive gear # 12 , the washers seat against the bushing which seats against a step in the crank , thus the nylon drive should not be contacting the washer with enough force to create friction, it would not matter the thickness of the washer as it sits on top of the steel bushing. Only if the nylon drive is taller than the steel bushing could the washer ride against it.
 
noodlewalker

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If everything is installed in the correct order and position then the depth of bushing # 11 should be greater than the depth of the nylon drive gear # 12 , the washers seat against the bushing which seats against a step in the crank , thus the nylon drive should not be contacting the washer with enough force to create friction, it would not matter the thickness of the washer as it sits on top of the steel bushing. Only if the nylon drive is taller than the steel bushing could the washer ride against it.
I agree... "If everything is installed in the correct order and position"... However if the washer is rubbing the clutch, wether it is upside down, or too thick... It will transfer the heat to the bushing it is seated against and that heat will melt the plastic.
 
noodlewalker

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The clutch is always in motion. The worm gear only rotates when the clutch engages the drum. That washer shouldn't engage the clutch at all... If it does, then it is constantly spinning as well. If it is spinning when the worm gear is not, the the friction occurs at the point where it seats against the bushing... That bushing heats up, you have a meltdown.
 
pioneerguy600

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I agree... "If everything is installed in the correct order and position"... However if the washer is rubbing the clutch, wether it is upside down, or too thick... It will transfer the heat to the bushing it is seated against and that heat will melt the plastic.
I think the bushing, washer and clutch are always turning with the crank, there is no place for friction between the clutch and the washer to make friction, the nylon oil pump drive only rotates when the clutch engages the drum so if the nylon drive is not rubbing on the washer at idle then it would be turning the same speed as the washer and crtank when running at cutting speed would it not.
 
noodlewalker

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I think the bushing, washer and clutch are always turning with the crank, there is no place for friction between the clutch and the washer to make friction, the nylon oil pump drive only rotates when the clutch engages the drum so if the nylon drive is not rubbing on the washer at idle then it would be turning the same speed as the washer and crtank when running at cutting speed would it not.
If that was the case, then the bushing would constantly be rubbing on the inside of the nylon drive gear. I believe it is opposite what you are describing. The bushing allows the worm gear to operate independent of the crankshaft allowing it to not oil at idle. When the clutch expands, it turns the drum which operates the oil pump, the washer is just there to avoid any contact from the springs... Big one or little one, it shouldn't matter... Thickness would matter. Orientation would matter.
 
pioneerguy600

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If that was the case, then the bushing would constantly be rubbing on the inside of the nylon drive gear. I believe it is opposite what you are describing. The bushing allows the worm gear to operate independent of the crankshaft allowing it to not oil at idle. When the clutch expands, it turns the drum which operates the oil pump, the washer is just there to avoid any contact from the springs... Big one or little one, it shouldn't matter... Thickness would matter. Orientation would matter.
The bushing definitely travels the same speed as the crank, it is pushed tight to a step in the crank spindle through the washer by tightening the clutch down in position, they all turn the same speed as the crank. The nylon oil drive part only does not turn when the saw is at idle, the clutch drum is not turning , the oil drive is not turning, the whole assembly turns when the clutch engages the drum.
 
dmb2613

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The bushing does not turn if everything is installed as it needs to be. When that bushing gets dry you will hear a squeal at idle but not when the clutch is engaged
. It only turns when the clutch is engaged . on some when you have the washer installed it will lock up the bushing making it turn all the time , this will burn up the plastic.
Because the clutch drum is holding the pin
Most of the time when you need to delete the washer the clutch is aftermarket, but I have seen some OEM ones do the same thing.
I hope I have this explained so everyone will understand
 
pioneerguy600

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The bushing does not turn if everything is installed as it needs to be. When that bushing gets dry you will hear a squeal at idle but not when the clutch is engaged
. It only turns when the clutch is engaged . on some when you have the washer installed it will lock up the bushing making it turn all the time , this will burn up the plastic.
Because the clutch drum is holding the pin
Most of the time when you need to delete the washer the clutch is aftermarket, but I have seen some OEM ones do the same thing.
I hope I have this explained so everyone will understand
Oh, this is getting good. So you are saying the crank turns inside the bushing while the bushing stays stationary?
 
dmb2613

dmb2613

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That is exactly what I am saying , if you have a good worm gear out of a Stihl Saw take good look at it,
 
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dmb2613

dmb2613

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If you have a crank that you can look at you will see the step on the crank that the clutch tightens against , the worm gear fit just below the step so it can free wheel when needed until the clutch is engaged , The old 024 and 026s that oiled all the time were tight on the crank, not the 044 though
 
huskihl

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If you have a crank that you can look at you will see the step on the crank that the clutch tightens against , the worm gear fit just below the step so it can free wheel when needed until the clutch is engaged , The old 024 and 026s that oiled all the time were tight on the crank, not the 044 though
Many of us use a sealer between the bushing and crank to prevent a vacuum leak, rather than the o ring that came on early models. Pretty sure it rotates with the crank
 
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