050 051 075 076 Info Thread
- Thread starter JDNicol
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Well I have done a bit of searching and apparently what I have is called an isolating clutch chainbrake.
It apparently locks the chain but still allows the motor to rev.
Not really sure of the point and apparently it wasn't used for long before they went to the normal chainbrake we all know.
It apparently locks the chain but still allows the motor to rev.
Not really sure of the point and apparently it wasn't used for long before they went to the normal chainbrake we all know.
Here are some pics from rebuilding an isolating clutch.
What you find:
What you need...new shift washer:
Homemade spring by heating and bending a piece of starter coil spring.
Worn carrier washer:
New flat spring, carrier and clutch shoes (same shoes as usual):
Carrier washer flipped 180°... like new
What you find:
What you need...new shift washer:
Homemade spring by heating and bending a piece of starter coil spring.
Worn carrier washer:
New flat spring, carrier and clutch shoes (same shoes as usual):
Carrier washer flipped 180°... like new
Yeah mate that's exactly the same as mine.
Except mine has no wear on anything.
I haven't got the saw back together yet so haven't started it either.
The only difference was my clutch shoes were smaller and had what appeared to be glue on parts of them so I'm guessing that they were fibre lined. Like I said earlier I had a spare clutch so I replaced the clutch shoes with the bigger all steel ones everything seems to fit good.
Do you know any of the history of the isolating clutch?
Why it was made and why it was discontinued?
Except mine has no wear on anything.
I haven't got the saw back together yet so haven't started it either.
The only difference was my clutch shoes were smaller and had what appeared to be glue on parts of them so I'm guessing that they were fibre lined. Like I said earlier I had a spare clutch so I replaced the clutch shoes with the bigger all steel ones everything seems to fit good.
Do you know any of the history of the isolating clutch?
Why it was made and why it was discontinued?
Nice to read that yours is in good condition. All specific parts are NLA.
My clutch shoes also had the glued fiber liner, as you can see on the pics.
I think it was a kind of over-engineering in the first aproach.
You could get this brake princilple also at 020AV, 031 and 041 I think.
The rattle sound in idle revs is impressive, and wear was expectable as you can see on my pics.
I think they quite soon recognized, that they had done more than really necessary.
My clutch shoes also had the glued fiber liner, as you can see on the pics.
I think it was a kind of over-engineering in the first aproach.
You could get this brake princilple also at 020AV, 031 and 041 I think.
The rattle sound in idle revs is impressive, and wear was expectable as you can see on my pics.
I think they quite soon recognized, that they had done more than really necessary.
Thanks for that.
I had never even heard of these until I bought this latest saw.
I have three others all with the normal clutch.
As you would also know the clutch/ chainbrake cover is also unique to the isolating clutch so if we destroy the cover a reproduction from spengazi (spelling) won't work either.
I had never even heard of these until I bought this latest saw.
I have three others all with the normal clutch.
As you would also know the clutch/ chainbrake cover is also unique to the isolating clutch so if we destroy the cover a reproduction from spengazi (spelling) won't work either.
The good news are:
1. the clutch can easily changed to the usual one, because the crankshaft ist the same.
2. Even without changing the clutch, the usual chainbrake will work, just without the isolating feature.
3. I have a complete spare cover
The bad news are:
The original usual chainbrake cover, which was still available from Brazil as a complete unit, is NLA in Germany since a few months.
1. the clutch can easily changed to the usual one, because the crankshaft ist the same.
2. Even without changing the clutch, the usual chainbrake will work, just without the isolating feature.
3. I have a complete spare cover
The bad news are:
The original usual chainbrake cover, which was still available from Brazil as a complete unit, is NLA in Germany since a few months.
They will ship, I have bought one and am happy with the quality.
The only bad news is that it is the cover only, it doesn't include any of the internals.
Perfect if your original chainbrake cover is damaged, not so much if you are trying to convert a non-chainbrake to a chainbrake.
Thanks for the info xl185s
The only bad news is that it is the cover only, it doesn't include any of the internals.
Perfect if your original chainbrake cover is damaged, not so much if you are trying to convert a non-chainbrake to a chainbrake.
Thanks for the info xl185s
HS60's? A Tillotson RK21-HS kit should be what you need.
Joey87
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey all. I am restoring a STIHL 051. I bypassed the condenser and points and added an electronic ignition coil. Problem is the saw wont turn off now. I’ve tried 3 new toggle switches and even grounded the kill wire to bare metal and still won’t die. Any ideas? It’s a brand new coil but could it be bad?
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Good lookin' saw. Use a multi-meter in continuity position to test the switch(es) and the coil ground path. It's highly unlikely the coil shorting terminal is bad.
Joey87
ArboristSite Lurker
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Joey87
ArboristSite Lurker
#pony the tie strap is there. My issue has been that there is one wire coming from the ignition coil that goes directly to the kill toggle switch (there is only one connect or contact point on the switch). There is a white wire coming out of the coil and ties into the body of the coil with a screw. I’ve ordered a new coil and hopes that helps. It seems fool proof, one wire from coil connects to one receiver end on toggle switch. I’m confused still. [emoji1304]
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