050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Dinho]

I have acquired a Stihl 051 AV and it needs a new flywheel. The part number on the one I’ve taken off doesn’t match the number it’s supposed to be. Just wondering if it’s possible they’ve had a different one on it or the numbers changed at all? The flywheel number should be 1111 404 1204 I’ve been told

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What's wrong with the flywheel?

There were several flywheels for the 1111 series saws with the 1204 being a later one. It was used on 051's after serial number 2 871 058. The number on the flywheel is a manufacturer part number, not a Stihl number. There are several on the bay right now.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=stihl+1111+404+1204&_sacat=0

 

[Dinho]

It has several fine missing and the previous owner has obviously tried to balance it by putting screws into the fins
Thanks for that I’ll have to check it out

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's what I'd call some superb redneckery right there!

 

[Farmerboy]

I’m rebuilding this soon to be 051 (from TS510 parts) with the idea to use as a dedicated chainsaw mill with auxiliary oiler. So a question:
I have a new aftermarket cylinder kit that has a squish of .050” with no base gasket. Is this acceptable for this saw?

 

[Dinho]

Will a stihl 076 flywheel fit an 051 av? The number is 1111 400 1201. It’s a points ignition model

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks like it depends on the serial number of the 051. The recoil type is probably the determining factor.

​

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Hi fellas. After a good while of not being here, I am back to doing further work on my 051 and 075 saws.
I have almost all the main parts to do my top end rebuild and crank seals and prep to vac/pressure test the core unit for leaks before moving on to the fuel system, electronics etc/
My immediate question lies in my difficulty in getting my 075 clutch and sprocket off. Correct me if I am wrong, but THE NUT does come off clockwise, (left hand thread) correct?

 

[Chainsaw_machinist]

Yes it's left hand thread. If you don't already have a removal tool you can make a really nice one with a 1-1/16 socket by cutting out every other flat to about a half inch down from the top. It'll fit over the 3 arms for the clutch shoes and allow you to spin it on and off with an impact.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

THANKS CS MAchinst

I am thinking this socket tool will not work for my 075 because the clutch has an almost solid cover over the guts of the clutch. If memory serves me right, it should work for my 051, I will take pics and post asap.

I had to make a similar socket tool for removing the drain in a a bath tub I was switching the drain in once. Nice to know one can fashion stuff to solve problems.

Now I remember, this is the type that should work for my saws

Of course I also can use the rope in the cylinder method.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's the tool. Should be able to find one for around 15 bux. That said, once the nut is removed the cover comes off to expose the internal clutch components if you'd prefer to make a tool as described.

​

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Thank you very much and great seeing you again, Pogo

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My pleasure. Good luck with it.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

OK, Pogo etc. I know this is a long thread and possibly the answer is within. But, if I should need to split my 075 and 051 cases to do crank bearings and clean things up 100%, will the C Clamp type Splitting tool with forked legs work on these saws, or do I need the type that clamps on the bar studs? Anyone have info on these? Also, those round plate type tools with the series of holes for various saw models, and the crank seal installation tools, Anyone have memory of where in this thread they might be discussed and also sources of these tools? Thanks

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Wish I could help, but have never torn one down that far. I'm just the oil pump expert and have all the manuals. LOL I do know the Husky case splitters that you describe need to have the forks spread apart to split an 066 case due to the crank size and would imagine the same would hold true to sneak in past the 1111 cranks. The bar stud method should work and is fairly easy to fashion with some 'U' channel or even a piece of uni-strut in a pinch. Have no idea where reference to the other tools may be in the thread, but here's a link to all the material I digitized a couple years ago if you haven't run across it yet. The tools will be referenced throughout for you to grab part numbers for em.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B...lacS1hbHBqazdHc3ZPT2JXaE1uX0Y1c215enBkNFJKNzg

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Pogo, yeah, I remember that oiler scenario. Thanks

 

[Dinho]

This is the serial number on the 051. Not sure how to relate it to the 076 flywheel number

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

This is the serial number on the 051. Not sure how to relate it to the 076 flywheel number

Thanks dinho,,,,,,,,,,,,, it is easy enough for me to compare. I just have to pull the one off my 51 and turn it over and compare both old ones and both new ones.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The 1201 flywheel was used on both saws and appears to have been used on the 051 until serial number 9 422 329. The determining factors will likely be the recoil type and obviously the crank for compatibility. I haven't dug into the crank numbers to compare them.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

The 1201 flywheel was used on both saws and appears to have been used on the 051 until serial number 9 422 329. The determining factors will likely be the recoil type and obviously the crank for compatibility. I haven't dug into the crank numbers to compare them.

In my case, the serial number of the saw won't help as it is mostly illegible. Like I said, the original flywheel will take a couple minutes to pop off since the saw is 90% broken down anyway.