1 days worth...

24 to 40 hours during typical winter days, augmented with a few of the seasoned, small "cook wood" splits on the left.

Part of it is the house not being very well insulated, much of it is the cheap but inefficient boxwood stove. Burns anything, just a lot of it.

One day they'll be a Jotul F118 with a glass door there...should cut my wood usage in half going to an EPA stove.

Some point in the not too distant future I need to strip and re-shingle, and I'm planning while I'm at that to open a big hole into the attic so I can go in with a haz mat suit and clean out all the mouse [email protected]#$, check all the electrical wiring, fix any wood that looks questionable, and put down new/more insulation, then we'll seal up that last 4x8 section of roof and finish shingling over it . It'll be interesting to see what the insulation does to my wood consumption then.

 

I believe that you would already gain a lot of more heat if your flue pipe(not sure what the correct word in English is) would go up a lot higher in the room(~2 feet below the ceiling) before disappearing into the wall.

7

 

Dalmatian90,

Insulation in the attic will make a huge impact on the house.
Window and door cracks and any other air cracks will also have a huge impact so being a silicon warrior and attic rat for a day will be the 2 biggest cheapest fixes.

When I first did my attic insulation I had maybe 1" of old smelly loose fiberglass so I used a shop vac to remove it all, took maybe 3 hrs.
10 bungles of blow in type insulation and a couple hours to put in 12" of new insulation then another 1hr to shop vac insulation that got in the soffets and it was done.
While I was up in the attic I insulated kitchen fan pipe vent and bathroom vent to stop condensation on both.

Another great fix is all exterior wall electrical switches or boxes take off the plate and put in insulation around the outside of the metal box.
Seems like it's a silly fix but moving air and insulation removal around every box makes for quite a bit of heat loss and quite cold walls that can impact an entire exterior wall.
Real cheap fix of a couple $.

I bet just those 3 fixes to the house reduce your wood needs in 1/2 and as a bonus a much cooler house in summer.


Dito on 7sleeper's comment about keeping the flue pipe into the house more.
If you can quite a bit more heat will warm the house.

 

Around here a face cord is a pretty standard term. The firewooders usually cut 16" wood, it's been that way for the 30 odd years I've lived here. 3 face cord to a cord. Those dealers selling on the heating assistance program must sell by the cord, not face cords. The customers I used to service would request different lengths depending on their stoves. I still have one that buys only 11" wood. Selling by the cord makes it hard to price, for me a face cord is a good measure of how much work goes into cutting and splitting it. A cord (2 face) of 24" wood is 1/2 the handling of a cord of 12" wood, the cost of the wood is constant, it's the labor that changes. I sell wood on the landing in 8' lengths for $65/cord loaded on your truck. The fellow who buys quite a bit sells 16" wood for $75/face cord green ($225/cord), he also has customers for 12" wood which is also $75/face cord or $300/cord. I think the face cord is used so much because it's pretty easy to throw that much in a pickup without stacking. Another fellow that buys from us has a processor and sells his split wood by the dump truck load, approximately 1 1/2 cords, for any length up to 36".

 

We don't have any AC so in the summer the drafts are welcome, HAHA!