1970 F350 advice

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KMB

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I went and looked at the truck I mentioned in the '1974 - 1979 F350 dually' thread and it turns out that it is a 1970 model (I found that out my looking at the vehicle registration), 2wd, 4 spd manual, regular cab. I know 4wd would be ideal...but for now it would do. My friend, the owner, doesn't know much about the truck. He had thought that the current motor was a swapped in Dodge, but when we looked under the hood, it had FORD marked valve covers. I didn't ask, but I'm sure he doesn't know what gears it has. He used the truck around his farm for hauling round hay bales, but has since bought another truck that can handle that duty (a recent model Dodge, 1 ton dually, 4x4, extended cab with a Cummins).
I know the guy he bought the Ford from, so I'll give him a call to see if he remembers what motor is in it, and any other details.

I should have taken pictures, but I'll give you some details of what I saw. I was over at his place for a social visit on Saturday, and we had a quick look at the truck before we ate supper.

It's been sitting for a while. We didn't try to start it. He says that he won't sell it to me unless it's running. He figures that all it needs is to check and hook up the battery, and put in fresh fuel. The fuel tank is not the original. It is mounted directly behind the cab on the driver’s side (on the outside of the frame, below the flat bed) with a different fuel filler location. The tank looks like a basic metal rectangular box with a fitting and a hose coming from the bottom. I don’t know much about fuel systems (fuel pumps and so on), so I don’t know if this setup is done right. I do know that there has to be a vent of some sort for the fuel tank. He had said something about fuel leaking from the carb area if the truck sat for to long (when he was using the truck). Since from my initial quick look at the fuel tank, it didn’t appear to have a vent line (and I don’t think the fuel filler cap was a vent type). Could the leaking fuel from the carb be from no venting? What should I be looking for to make sure the basic components are there? If I/we can drain the tank of the old fuel, what is the best way to clean the tank?

The truck needs a rear tire (which he said he would replace). The flat deck has a wood floor which should work for a little while. It has a mounted ball for a gooseneck, and a 2" hitch receiver tube (welded to the flat deck) for a bumper pull. There's a 6-way electrical socket for the trailer wiring. The lights and are supposed to work. There is a brake controller in the cab.

The cab interior needs a good cleaning (smells of mice). Paint is starting to peel…but this would be my firewood truck, so it doesn’t have to be pretty…just functional.

So from what I’ve described so far, before driving it, what would be a ball park value for this truck? My friend will work with me on a price, he just would like to get rid of it. I asked him a price when he first mentioned this truck the other day and he said 'cheap'. I asked him again Saturday, and he asked me what I thought a fair price was. I don't know...that's why I posted this info. I'm sure their are fella's here that can help. Or is it worth fooling with? The fuel tank set-up is my main concern so far. I've never messed with a vehicle this old and any advice would be appreciated.

Kevin
 
I'd make sure it's inspectable before I did anything Kevin. Not worth anything if you can't use it. That said a 2wd of that era probably anything up too a grand depending on how it runs? Good Luck.
 
I'd make sure it's inspectable before I did anything Kevin. Not worth anything if you can't use it. That said a 2wd of that era probably anything up too a grand depending on how it runs? Good Luck.

I don't think Arkansas requires inspections for registration on older vehicles...but I'll confirm. Having a mechanic inspect it regardless wouldn't be a bad idea. I'll drive it first and listen to it.

Kevin
 
My 2 cents

I am curious what engine is in the thing. It most likely would be a FE, and I am thinking the venerable 390. Anyway, let's assume that the engine runs without any serious noises, the transmission shifts well enough, and it isn't going to need a clutch in the next 30 days.

Brakes and steering! Kind of nice to be able to steer and stop it. Decent tires are nice as well... it is up to you what you are willing to "get away with".

It it really is a 350 (1 ton) then I think it is worth up to a grand. I know of one up here that is similar that hauls wood regularly without issues.
 
I am curious what engine is in the thing. It most likely would be a FE, and I am thinking the venerable 390. Anyway, let's assume that the engine runs without any serious noises, the transmission shifts well enough, and it isn't going to need a clutch in the next 30 days.

Brakes and steering! Kind of nice to be able to steer and stop it. Decent tires are nice as well... it is up to you what you are willing to "get away with".

It it really is a 350 (1 ton) then I think it is worth up to a grand. I know of one up here that is similar that hauls wood regularly without issues.

Yes, I'm curious about the engine myself. Hopefully the previous owner will know more.

Good points on the brakes and steering. Those are very important when fully loaded.

As far as it being a true 350, according to the vehicle registration papers I found in the glove box it is. I should have taken the VIN to confirm. Is is a dually, and the emblems on the hood (look to be original) say 350...but I realize that doesn't confirm it being a 1 ton.

Kevin
 
Would you be going far with it? Like for a firewood business? I would assume it liked gas even when it ran perfectly and now it might really suck it down. Just something to work into the decision.
Ian
 
Would you be going far with it? Like for a firewood business? I would assume it liked gas even when it ran perfectly and now it might really suck it down. Just something to work into the decision.
Ian

Approx. 30 miles max. sometimes...all depends where the wood is. I would be driving on back roads so I could go slower. I'll have maybe 3 or 4 cords to sell. Mostly the firewood is for myself and my mom-in-law. I would still have my 1997 F150 4x4 for lighter duty.

Kevin
 
The axle gears are more than likely 4:10s. The engine is probably a 360 or a 390. Both are FE engines. They have good torque and love to drink gas.

The fifth digit of the vin should be a letter. It shows what engine it has that is if the engine is original. The tag on the door should have different letters and numbers on it. The axle code could be a letter or a number. If you post those numbers I'll try to look them up for you.
 
The axle gears are more than likely 4:10s. The engine is probably a 360 or a 390. Both are FE engines. They have good torque and love to drink gas.

The fifth digit of the vin should be a letter. It shows what engine it has that is if the engine is original. The tag on the door should have different letters and numbers on it. The axle code could be a letter or a number. If you post those numbers I'll try to look them up for you.

:bang: I saw the VIN and the numbers on the door tag...but I didn't record them. On my next trip back there (maybe with in a week or so), I'll get pics and the numbers.

Kevin
 
Whenever asked what I would offer, I start with a nominal amount "hunnert bucks".

I generally find that if an old Ford will turn over they don't take much to get them back running again. If he thought it was a Dodge engine in it, it is probably a 360. Ford and Dodge both had their own 360 engine. The Ford 360 is in The FE series and were good motors. Though they weren't known for fuel economy they did hold up well.

If he is just wanting to get it out of the way a nominal exchange of cash might be all it takes for him to part with it.

If it has set very long the mice/rats may have started working on the wiring. Look this over closely before putting a battery in it. If you are lucky all they did was chew up the heater lines to the dash and pack the plenum with their nest. Sonds like a good find , even in rough condition.

:cheers:
 
I just got off the phone with the guy (another friend of mine) who had the truck before the current owner did. It was a former motorhome and about 15 years ago (when my friend got it from this other guy) it had about 50,000 miles on it. Since then, I believe all it has done is haul round bales (and probably cows). The engine is a 360. He didn't know what gears it has, but the current owner said that he hauled 15 round bales regularly with no problem. How far? I don't know. I think most all of his hay fields are close to his hay sheds. I'm thinking that the truck hasn't been used a whole lot. Seeing as it was formerly a motorhome, would it have higher speed gears such as 3:55 instead of 4:10? Any advantages or disadvantages resulting from the truck being a former motorhome?

I also asked about the fuel tank. The fuel tank in a motorhome setup was mounted in specific place. When he put the flat deck on, he mounted a new fuel tank in the new location. He said it is setup properly, but it's smaller (he figured only about 95 miles out of the tank) I don't know how many gallon tank the new one is...looks like only about 10 gallons. I forgot to ask him, but I don't think the fuel gauge is hooked up to the tank. Something to keep in mine.

Kevin
 
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Here is my 71 F350 I bought for $1100. It came with extra cab and hood and fender which I replaced as the others were rusted/damaged. Replacing the cab was a lot of work, but worth it. I probably wouldn't have bought if not for the dump bed. It has 360 eng and 4:10 gears and 4 speed. 50 mph is bout as fast as I want to drive it. does have power steering and booster brakes.
 
i personally would not try to put a truck back on the road that hasnt been on the road for a while, and unless its mint, i just dont see this being a good idea. if its just been driven around to haul hay around the farm or whatever......it just seems like more money gets put into it than its worth. this is my 2 cents only, take it for what its worth.
 
i personally would not try to put a truck back on the road that hasnt been on the road for a while, and unless its mint, i just dont see this being a good idea. if its just been driven around to haul hay around the farm or whatever......it just seems like more money gets put into it than its worth. this is my 2 cents only, take it for what its worth.

You have a point. I'll test drive it and see what I find. I'm just trying to give my 1/2 ton a break, and I don't have a bunch of cash to put toward a newer 1 ton. After the test drive, I'll try and do a rough estimate of what I'll need to do for maintenance, how much of it I can do myself and so on and factor that in to a purchase price.

Kevin
 
Go for it

and I am not noted as being a Ford guy, but for what you need, go for it.

There should be a tag with either the axle gearing, or a pair of numbers (teeth of ring/pinion) under one of the bolts on the axle. Which should be either a D60 or the D70. Probably has a fairly impressive drum brake as well.

The 360 and 390 are identical crankshaft is the only difference IIRC.

Nevermind the nay-saying, a old truck is worth working with. My wood hauler is a complete disaster body wise... but it sure runs good!
 
i personally would not try to put a truck back on the road that hasnt been on the road for a while, and unless its mint, i just dont see this being a good idea. if its just been driven around to haul hay around the farm or whatever......it just seems like more money gets put into it than its worth. this is my 2 cents only, take it for what its worth.

old trucks are cheap and easy to fix.. wood work is hard on a truck and they will get beat no matter if they are new or old..honestly my grandpas 85 f-350 is more relaible than my sisters 03 2500HD(88k and fuel pump number 4)..
 
and I am not noted as being a Ford guy, but for what you need, go for it.

There should be a tag with either the axle gearing, or a pair of numbers (teeth of ring/pinion) under one of the bolts on the axle. Which should be either a D60 or the D70. Probably has a fairly impressive drum brake as well.

The 360 and 390 are identical crankshaft is the only difference IIRC.

Nevermind the nay-saying, a old truck is worth working with. My wood hauler is a complete disaster body wise... but it sure runs good!

old trucks are cheap and easy to fix.. wood work is hard on a truck and they will get beat no matter if they are new or old..honestly my grandpas 85 f-350 is more relaible than my sisters 03 2500HD(88k and fuel pump number 4)..

Well, thanks fellas for the boost forward :). I'm sure hoping that after the test drive that I won't be disappointed. As I knew you would, the AS crew has offered helpful info thus far :clap:.

I was gonna wait till I go back out to my friends place to work (Saturdays he sometimes needs help around his farm), but with all the info I've got just today, I might have to find an excuse to get back out there sooner :).

And then there's my dear wife...she hears '1970' and rolls her eyes starts asking me where I'll park the ole truck :rolleyes: :).

Kevin
 
I have a friend that has the same era truck w/ a dump bed on it...I have driven the truck to Menards (35 miles away) to haul a load of landscaping blocks...I was surprised how well the truck drove and handled...If my wife would not kill me I would have a truck like that for fun...
 
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