1st post -- Special log splitter -- Need help

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Eric 271- Did you have any web stiffeners in it?

The 16 inch beam is here to stay. It's what I have. The splitter is already started. Engine and pump are mounted. Cylinder is mounted. Wheels are next.

If it turns out to be a problem I'll put some braces in. Probably do it before it is a problem. 16" beam with 3/8th web and 1/2 flanges.



Mike van -- One of my motors does have the pilot port on it. Must be for a brake although it free wheels without any drag. Maybe I'll try and figure out what's going on there.

The motors are Ross torq motors. I don't know the displacement.


Jer

Like Kevin J says box it. That will stiffen it up some. The twist you will see probably won't hurt anything if you don't box it in but might tend to make you nervous when it happens. I used an 8'' I beam with 1/2'' flanges and webb on my second splitter with no apparent twist when getting in to the hard wood now.
 
Ok Guys, I don't think I'm going to worry about beam twist till it happens. It's easy enough to weld in some 3/8ths flat bar when needed. I still don't have a single picture of my splitter. Maybe I'll get a few tomorrow if I remember the camera.

It's not a drain on my motor. It's only on 1 of them and the port was connected to a pressure line going to a separate circuit on the sand pro. I'm not saying there isn't a drain I just haven't found it yet.

The 1st 2 pictures show the right side motor with the pilot port. This is the only motor with this port. The motor also has an extended housing. Probably where the brake assembly is. There's probably an adjustment somewhere for the brake. I'll see if I can find it.


As for using spool with power beyond --- I still think I'm going to use a selector valve in the line coming from the pump. There will be no reason for me to need to split and move at the same time. I'm thinking that it should keep my splitting circuit simpler thus keeping heat generation, pressure and flow loss down. Also the spools will be in different locations for easy of use. I won't be able to move and split from the same place on the machine.


I spent all sunday stripping out the sand pro. I have all the parts I want off of it. I listed some extras I don't want on Craigslist and already have sold enough to cover all my costs on the entire sand pro.

Here's a few pictures of what it looks like.


Jer
 
That mystery line comming out of the left side drive motor is a cooling line. If you notice, the end cap on the left side motor is thicker than the end cap on the right side motor. Thats because there is a "pilot controlled" directional control valve built into the end cap. So, when the Sand-Pro is moving forword, the pressure going to the motor, also shifts the directional control valve and some of the oil "after preforming it's work" is redirected too the cooling system. Oh yaaaa!.... I know that cause I look up the hydraulic prints.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
That mystery line comming out of the left side drive motor is a cooling line. If you notice, the end cap on the left side motor is thicker than the end cap on the right side motor. Thats because there is a "pilot controlled" directional control valve built into the end cap. So, when the Sand-Pro is moving forword, the pressure going to the motor, also shifts the directional control valve and some of the oil "after preforming it's work" is redirected too the cooling system. Oh yaaaa!.... I know that cause I look up the hydraulic prints.:hmm3grin2orange:


OK George could be. Realize that the line connected to the pilot port on the motor goes to the line connected to the inlet side of a single spool that controls a hydraulic cylinder used to lift the rear implement. Wouldn't it make more sence to have that line on the outlet side of the spool, which does go to the cooler.

Secondly, Where did you get the hydraulic prints? I'd love to see them.

If it is what you say -- Can I just plug it or do I ned to route it somewhere??

Eventually I will get the part # off the motor. Can't do it till sunday though, I'm heading to New Hampshire for the rest of the week.

Jer
 
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Thats a good find

Wow George, Thats good info there.

Unfortunately my Sand pro is even older. It's a sand pro 14.

The hydraulic schematic looks pretty much the same as what I see on the machine. I would say it is safe to assume that My port is also a cooling port. It's on the right side motor though.

Plumbing all seems to go to the same places.

I can also hook that line up to in a similar fashion on the splitter. It just won't go to a cooler. Just return to tank. I'll tie it in after a power beyond port somewhere. It should act the same then, tied into a feed for a second open center spool, returning to tank.

Thanks for the info, I'll do some reading on that link when I get some time.

Jer
 
It sounds like this is a loop flushing valve that removes some oil from the hydrostatic loop for cooling and exchanging the loop oil. In a hydrostatic transmission the same oil goes pump-motor-pump-motor without going through tank. Is this what you have? Thus the need for flushing this loop oil or it will overheat.
The makeup is done with the charge pump section in the hydro pump.

In a hydro, there should definitely be a case drain on each motor, and on the pump. Sometimes the flushing oil routes into motor case(s) then through the pump. Depends on the circuit, but there needs to be a case drain as the low side of loop will always be 200-400, and the case can't connect to that. Shaft seal would not take it.

Charge oil is typically 200 to 400 psi on the low side. The circuit takes this to a spool valve and using it to lift the occasional cylinder. Cheap way of lifting small loads without a separate pump. It will be limited to the low pressure setting by the charge relief valve in the charge pump.

Whether and how you use it depends on if you are using the sandpro hystostatic pump, or changing the motors to run open loop from your splitter pump.
If running the motors open loop from the splitter pump, you won't need the flushing valve at all. Can plug it, if you know for sure the downstream port on the motor always goes to return. i.e, if you run a separate motor spool valve and plumb that to tank. If the motor returns back to the splitter circuit, there is a chance that the splitter could be accidently operated, thus putting a high pressure on motor outlet port. Then I'd run the flushing valve/case drains to tank separately from motor outlet to be safe.

google Sauer Sundstrand series 90, or Eaton hydrostatic, or other info to understand how a hydro works, and the difference from an open loop circuit.

kcj
 
i skimmed pretty fast.
if using gear pump, you won't need the flushing valve, it wouldn't work right anyway, but I would run a separate case drain to tank if possible.

kcj
 
That's what I'm doing. I will power the motors using a double spool valve with 1 spool for each valve. Just going to use 2 motors. The 3rd wheel will just be a free wheel on a swivel.

I'm hoping that I will have controll of each drive wheel independently being able to steer like a skid steer or excavator.

I also am going to use a selector valve to isolate the splitting and traveling circuits. There will be no need to split and move at the same time. This should keep the splitting circuit simpler keeping heat, pressure loss and flow loss to a minimum.

I'm using a 22 GPM 2 stage pump from northern tool. It says it's a haldex/barnes I believe. All valves and fittings are 3/4 pipe thread or larger. The cylinder has o-ring ports in sae 12 I believe.

Return filter is rated at 70 GPM with 1 1/4 port.

I should be ok for flow loss. I don't think it's going to be so critical with the travel circuit. Where I can I'll still use large ports on my valves.

Jer
 
pay attention to the returns, and make it 1 inch or bigger on both the splitter side and drive side.

you can T the splitter and drive system to the same return if you want.
 
Resurrecting a very old thread...

Log splitter project sat for quite a few years with zero progress. Lost interest until a few weeks ago.

1st thing I needed was to get the engine running. Of course bad gas with ethanol turned to turpentine. Cleaned fuel tank, replaced all fuel lines, and removed, disassembled, and cleaned carb. Bottom of fuel bowl had a fuel shut off solenoid which I managed to clean and get working again. Only had to replace the fuel float needle.

Next on the list was to get the machine moving under it's own power. That meant plumbing the hydraulics. Luckily I had bought most of the components over 10 years ago. Prices where a whole lot different.
I also bought 25 gallons of hydraulic fluid on sale at tractor supply a few years ago. $30 per 5 gallon bucket. Today $64.99 each bucket.

Unfortunately I cracked the auto cycle valve. Silly tapered pipe threads and I went half a turn too far.
The prince rd5000 valve body casting is the same between 1/2" threaded ports and 3/4" threaded ports -- 3/4 ports don't leave much meat in the casting. CRACKED. I attempted an epoxy repair, didn't hold very long. Not a terrible leak but still a leak.

Machine moves under it's own power!

IMG_0459.jpegIMG_0460.jpegIMG_0461.jpegIMG_0462.jpegIMG_0463.jpegIMG_0464.jpegIMG_0465.jpegIMG_0466.jpegIMG_0467.jpeg
 
Thanks Dave, It’s been a long time for an unfinished project.

next up is the slide and push plate. Then the wedge.

Machine is plumbed for a log lift and I have 1 free spool for whatever I determine I need.

Anyone see any black friday sales on a prince auto cycle valve. No more 3/4 npt gonna go SAE 12 this time even though it will cost me some more fittings.
 
2 wraps of teflon, run a fingernail in the threads, then a some blue monster.

I’ve been in irrigation for 35 years. Made thousands of pipe thread joints. I knew better than to crank down on that fitting. Just needed a half turn to point where I wanted.

I was not happy when it cracked.
 
2 wraps of teflon, run a fingernail in the threads, then a some blue monster.

I’ve been in irrigation for 35 years. Made thousands of pipe thread joints. I knew better than to crank down on that fitting. Just needed a half turn to point where I wanted.

I was not happy when it cracked.
Don't feel too bad I know were there are two prince auto cycle valves that got cracked the same way. Not mine but I got involved in repairing them. I took them apart and a buddy at my old job before I retired tig welded them. As far as I know they are still working. I have been retired for over six years now.
 
Don't feel too bad I know were there are two prince auto cycle valves that got cracked the same way. Not mine but I got involved in repairing them. I took them apart and a buddy at my old job before I retired tig welded them. As far as I know they are still working. I have been retired for over six years now.
I thought about tig welding it with stainless wire but after reading about it decided not to. Mainly because of the porous cast iron impregnated with hydraulic oil. Most everywhere I read said it was a crap shoot as to wether it would work.

Luckily though I think I fixed it. I decided to pull out the elbow and take a look in the port. Crack was about halfway down the threads. I ended up using a pipe threader and making a nipple with long threads on one side. Maybe 1.75" of threads. The thought was to have enough threads to get down past the crack and bottom out in the port.

Left the epoxy alone which probably helped to strengthen the cracked port during the bottoming out tightening.

It seems to have worked. The port I cracked is the cylinder retract port so it shouldn't see super high pressure. I ran the auto cycle a dozen times with no fluid leaks. I guess I'll see how long it lasts.


Spent some time working on the sled/push plate today.
 
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