2 cycle oil choices

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I prefer trusting test that are not done by the oil manufacturer.

All their oil test they are the winner


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
I worked for an echo dealer for 3 years and i can vouch for these results...powerblendX isn't a bad oil but those pistons look as good or better as the ones i saw using that oil...alot of deposits and common port buildup i didnt see it with most other oils

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so what's everyone's advice/experience in breaking in a brand new cylinder/rings? personally I would feel better using regular oil the first couple tanks until the saw felt at full power before switching over to a synthetic
 
so what's everyone's advice/experience in breaking in a brand new cylinder/rings? personally I would feel better using regular oil the first couple tanks until the saw felt at full power before switching over to a synthetic
I use the oil i run normally which is opti2, but at 32:1 for a tank...then i go up from there when i start to turn up the power

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I prefer trusting test that are not done by the oil manufacturer.

All their oil test they are the winner


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Regardless of the oil manufacturer, Did you look at those results and pictures? That number 5 engine was clearly a POS compared to the other 7. I wonder if it was assembled with parts made on a Friday or Monday
 
Regardless of the oil manufacturer, Did you look at those results and pictures? That number 5 engine was clearly a POS compared to the other 7. I wonder if it was assembled with parts made on a Friday or Monday

Iv seen it before. I spent years researching the ups and downs of motor oil.Just kinda happened[emoji2373]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
For thise using MOTUL 200 2T, which version are you using? Off road (104038) or road racing (104041)?
 
For thise using MOTUL 200 2T, which version are you using? Off road (104038) or road racing (104041)?
Off-road, it has a lower flash point (still high compared to other oils), burns better in a chain saw. Road-racing is optimal for engines that run 18-20k rpm. I'm liking the smell of 800 off road more and more, I'm using it in my smaller chainsaws too lately and I like the results.
 
So off-road version for all power equipment (chainsaw, backpack blower, mutli-head)?
 
So off-road version for all power equipment (chainsaw, backpack blower, mutli-head)?
Yes, runs for all, great oil with great detergency, if carb jetted correctly of course. I like it at 40:1 gas to oil ratio. Might get a little bit more spooge coming out of the exhaust on the lower rpm tools (like the blower), but no biggie. If you don't use the same gas can for all tools, you can use 50:1 for the blower and 40:1 for the chainsaw. But to be fair, due to the viscosity and lack of solvents, motul 800 at 50:1 has the same actual oil as other brands at 40:1, so you could go 50:1 in all and don't stress over it, especially if not a pro that runs them hours on end. I'm just a 40:1 guy due to seeing some nasty bearing wear on pro saws ran 50:1 pre-mix fuel (no so chance they were straight gased or lean mix ratio).
 
For what it's worth, I run klotz super techniplate in everything. Figured it was good enough for the old mans race boat, and our old dirt bikes, and sleds, good enough for my saws. And well every other 2 stroke powered piece of equipment and toy I have.
Nice! I run Klotz R-50 in my saws. Never had a problem with them. When I pull the muffler, I always have a nice shiny film on an impeccable piston and no carbon build up on the exhaust port or muffler. Regardless of the oil you run, tune your saws. Get those jets dialed in and let those buggers sing!
 
Regardless of the oil you run, tune your saws. Get those jets dialed in and let those buggers sing!
Spot on bud. A good tune is everything for a healthy 2 stroke: too lean, clean spark plug but overhearted piston with black burnt oil all over it, or even worse if way too lean. Too rich, spotless piston due to washing but plug and chamber all gummed up. It's worth buying a m-tronic for people that aren't interested in learning it, but it's not rocket science. Lots of detailed videos on proper tuning, it's how I did it. You'll also know if your m-tronic ever has a problem just by the sound of it, and it might save you a lot of money on the long run.
 
Nice! I run Klotz R-50 in my saws. Never had a problem with them. When I pull the muffler, I always have a nice shiny film on an impeccable piston and no carbon build up on the exhaust port or muffler. Regardless of the oil you run, tune your saws. Get those jets dialed in and let those buggers sing!
I would like to add something I learned today. I saw a buddy's Husky 3120 torn down after running R-50 for a few years. It was full of carbon deposits. I'm not so sure now. He said he was switching to Lucas at 25:1. Sounds good to me. Honestly, what I saw startled me. Maybe it would be good to put the R-50 to rest. Food for thought. Best wishes!
 
I would like to add something I learned today. I saw a buddy's Husky 3120 torn down after running R-50 for a few years. It was full of carbon deposits. I'm not so sure now. He said he was switching to Lucas at 25:1. Sounds good to me. Honestly, what I saw startled me. Maybe it would be good to put the R-50 to rest. Food for thought. Best wishes!
If you watch that video halfway through this post I'm thinking he said this very same thing. I've never run the Klotz because its not readily available here. The way I look at that is if it was as great as people say it is, the bike shops and OPE dealers would stock it.
 
After seeing what I saw, I spoke with a Klotz tech today and he suggested their 50:1 techniplate. He said to lay off the R-50. I'm taking my saws off the R-50 juice and going to Lucas. It's easier on my wallet and I've never heard a bad thing. More importantly, I'm going to retune my saws! Hone them in and run them hard!
 
For what it's worth, I run klotz super techniplate in everything. Figured it was good enough for the old mans race boat, and our old dirt bikes, and sleds, good enough for my saws. And well every other 2 stroke powered piece of equipment and toy I have.
Spoke to a Klotz tech today. He said stay away from r-50 for chainsaws. 50:1 techniplate is good though. Have a good one!
 
After seeing what I saw, I spoke with a Klotz tech today and he suggested their 50:1 techniplate. He said to lay off the R-50. I'm taking my saws off the R-50 juice and going to Lucas. It's easier on my wallet and I've never heard a bad thing. More importantly, I'm going to retune my saws! Hone them in and run them hard!
I'm still running the Woodsman Pro from Baileys but my supply is about gone and I don't know how their availability is anymore. Gonna check out the local Cycle Gear and hope they sell the Motul. If not I'll keep using the Lucas
 
Now that I’m on to Lucas oil, I’m gonna retune, get a fresh grind, run full squirt, and tell y’all how it goes.
 
Spoke to a Klotz tech today. He said stay away from r-50 for chainsaws. 50:1 techniplate is good though. Have a good one!
Our conversation revolved around 1 oil that I could use in all my 2 strokes. I believe i posted the email of his recommendations. Then after speaking to them I was recommended to go with the snowmobile techniplate because of the increased anti corrosion package in it. I still have about half a gallon of super techniplate. So when I'm done with that I'll get a gallon of the snowmobile oil. I dont have a problem with any of the other oils. We uses it specifically because it mixed with methonal. There are many great oils out there. Truthfully I dont think it matters what oil you run so long as it's good quality oil. With the choices we have today, i think its really hard to say one is the best. I like klotz, my old mans race boat held up with it, all my stuff holds up with it. Carbon hasn't been a major issue for me when I've had to tear down my equipment. I like to think I'm fair at tuning a carb, and decent at maintaining my equipment as well. Idk this is a never ending debate.
 
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