200T carburetor accel pump block off.

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Thank you! I don't have to buy a new saw because of this thread. Whoever figured out this essentially internal vacuum leak from the accelerator pump is a saint and probably a patient person. Why doesn't the kit at least come with an O ring for the accelerator pump? I glued mine shut like first dude did on this thread, and my saw idles now. I replied to carbitooter thread too. My saw is fixed! Thanx again!
With leaking accelerator pump:
 
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade here, but isn't this mod effectively just removing the accel pump? That is fine, but the pump is put there for a reason. One of the great things about the 200 is the instant throttle response. Just wondering how it performs without that extra shot of fuel? I am particularly fond of the pumps in circumstances where the saw has started to cool off (after lunch) and a couple of squeezes of the trigger makes the start go alot easier.

BTW, $140 for a 200t carb is highway robbery. We retail them for $96. They are usually special order, but I am thinking on keeping one in stock as they have been requested plenty lately.

Like you, I figured gluing the accelerator pump shut would create a lean condition. Maybe I do have a lean condition compared to how it ran in 2007 or whenever I got the saw, but I can't remember 2007. I'm happy. It rips. Steps to success: 1. Order a new carb from your saw shop. 2. While you're waiting, and procrastinating, dreading the thought of cleaning the garage, halfheartedly glue your accelerator pump circuit shut. 3. Be pleasantly impressed, and enjoy. Barrraaappp!
 
I have had about a 50/50 success using the fix....

Now that they finally make the cheaper replacement carbs ($20 for a new carb) for the MS200T, I will be going that route when I can't get one of these carbs to rebuild correctly, as a $100 carb isn't worth it.

I got really lucky on my last two recent MS200T carb rebuilds, one was a very low hour, newer saw with the carb that had the accelerator pump, and the other was the older version without the accelerator pump. Both carbs rebuilt and ran awesome. This is not the normal for me on MS200T carbs. I would bet that 4 out of 5 of these MS200T carbs with accelerator pumps are usually screwed up.... people keep running them until they kill the saw or it frustrates the heck out of them and they toss it.

The $100 new OEM replacement price really makes me upset, as Stihl seems to know that these carbs fail and they certainly don't price them like a new MS180 carb ($30).... You would think the idjits would install a steel or brass sleeve and a better seal sytem for the piston, but why fix a part for a discontinued saw that they know will keep selling like hotcakes?
 
What are the symptoms of a leaking accel. pump? I've got a crappy poulan with one of those accel. pump carbs. Some running issues, and found it to be sucking air around the throttle shaft. Idles alright but dies if I spray a little carb clean around the throttle shaft.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
I haven't taken my carb apart yet. The part that I'm trying to understand is: 1 How far does the piston go in and 2 Since the piston is glued in, how does it clear the throttle shaft.
THANKS
I've already ordered a new carb from Dave.
 
What are the symptoms of a leaking accel. pump? I've got a crappy poulan with one of those accel. pump carbs. Some running issues, and found it to be sucking air around the throttle shaft. Idles alright but dies if I spray a little carb clean around the throttle shaft.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
Bah bah bah bah it goes. Could be other things too though.
 
I haven't taken my carb apart yet. The part that I'm trying to understand is: 1 How far does the piston go in and 2 Since the piston is glued in, how does it clear the throttle shaft.
THANKS
I've already ordered a new carb from Dave.
Good move they run real snappy on those saws. Update please when you get it.
 
I put the new carb on and it runs much better. I'm waiting for a box of spark plugs and will run the saw after the plug is changed. It was a bolt on carb. The only change was to remove the plastic covers on the adjustment screws. This is a 2005 saw and probably has 20-25 tanks through it. My old carb was an "A" model and had a plastic soft plug for the pump. The new carb doesn't have a hole for the pump.
 
I put the new carb on and it runs much better. I'm waiting for a box of spark plugs and will run the saw after the plug is changed. It was a bolt on carb. The only change was to remove the plastic covers on the adjustment screws. This is a 2005 saw and probably has 20-25 tanks through it. My old carb was an "A" model and had a plastic soft plug for the pump. The new carb doesn't have a hole for the pump.
What carb OEM or what?
 
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